北町奉行
The Gion Festival is a festival of conger eel. In July, at any restaurant you go to, you will find conger eel and sweetfish. If the seas in Kansai are rough due to typhoons, this trend becomes even stronger. The restaurant "Shuhaku" gained a lot of attention initially because the owner had experience in French cuisine. They only offer set courses, but they used to come up with various unique ideas, so I have been there about 4-5 times before. I visited after a long time, but perhaps because it was lunchtime, the excitement that was once there seemed to have faded. In particular, the elaborate arrangement of various ingredients that they used to boast about was missing, and it felt like the elegance had diminished. The soup was surprisingly intense in flavor, leaving some doubts. The first dish was a "Vegetable Assortment", featuring about 20 types of Kyoto vegetables and Western vegetables prepared in various ways. Each vegetable is cooked differently, similar to the concept in Michel Bras's gargouillou. It would be irresistible for vegetable lovers. However, the downside is that it takes a long time to be served. The soup featured Awaji conger eel, Kamo eggplant, and Katsura cucumber. The broth was dark and rich, almost like a soup. The assortment used to have around 10 varieties, which would excite the diners, but now it feels lonely. The Awaji conger eel had a good texture and flavor, but the grilled hairtail lacked depth and was overshadowed by burnt aroma. The vinegar dish consisted of white asparagus from Kagawa and tender octopus simmered in Tosa vinegar jelly. Since they don't explain the dishes, you have to ask to understand. The octopus was cooked well, but it wasn't memorable. As a side dish, they served grilled boneless Biwa Lake sweetfish. This seemed to be their specialty. The fish was grilled crispy and boneless, making it enjoyable to eat. Next was the abalone cooked on a hot stone with liver sauce. Perhaps because I ordered the most expensive lunch course at 10,000 yen, this dish seemed unimpressive, like they were trying to balance the cost. I would prefer such dishes at a traditional inn rather than at a counter-style Kyoto restaurant where the cooking is done in front of the customers. The salt-grilled sea bass with figs was cooked meticulously for a long time, but the fish was dry and lacked richness. The figs, on the other hand, were delicious with sweet white miso. This restaurant excels in sweet dishes, as evident in their famous "Unlimited Desserts" offer. Despite all this, the restaurant seemed to be struggling, perhaps due to it being lunchtime or just a slow day. The owner is a typical Kyoto person, which is reflected in their wine list. They only offer Jacky Charlot Champagne (very expensive, who would drink that?). The other wines are also famous and expensive brands, but are they really suitable for the dishes? It would be necessary to consider the guests' budgets and offer wines that are at least equivalent in price to the dishes. It might be necessary to show more consideration in this regard. There is a concern that they might be overtaken by their disciple's restaurant, "Kyoto Cuisine Fujimoto," but worrying about that may be unnecessary.