辣油は飲み物
The restaurant "Jukusei Sushi Ban" that I am introducing this time is a sushi restaurant specializing in "aging" that is different from any other place. I have always avoided specialized sushi restaurants because I am not a fan of aging, whether it's beef or fish. However, I knew about the potential of aging as a specialty from "Sushi Kiyomura" in Futakotamagawa. This time, I visited thanks to a kind recommendation from a regular customer. Ultimately, I was overwhelmed by the uniqueness of the restaurant in every aspect, not just specializing in aging. Opinions will be divided for sure. I felt that this place goes beyond just "Aging Sushi" and creates a genre of its own called "Ban." Before I delve into the location and atmosphere of "Jukusei Sushi Ban," it's worth noting that the location has a distinct Minato Ward vibe (even though the address is in Shibuya Ward). It's located in a room in an apartment building, locked, so you have to buzz in. The restaurant is on the 3rd floor of the building, with only 6 counter seats, giving it a premium feel. However, it's not in a lavish direction but rather a hardcore theatrical setting where the master and all customers face each other. Interestingly, once you enter the restaurant, you can already smell vinegar. Even though the sushi rice isn't ready yet! Why is that!? I was surprised by this reason. The master, Akira Shirayama, adds vinegar to the rice when cooking. I'll talk about the sushi rice later, but this cooking method is unparalleled! And the unique aging aroma is also present, differentiating it from typical sushi restaurants right from the restaurant's scent. When the rice is cooked, the process starts with the master, Akira Shirayama, cutting the sushi rice in front of the customers, just like at "Hatsune Sushi." You are instantly enveloped in a strong vinegar aroma. I felt that the vinegar aroma is the defining aroma of "Jukusei Sushi Ban." First, let's talk about the work and originality of Master Shirayama at "Jukusei Sushi Ban." The lifeline of sushi, the rice, is cooked in a Vermicular rice cooker. It's cooked very firm, almost al dente. It feels like there's about 20-25% less water compared to the typical firmness of sushi rice. It's completely al dente, but it's not noticeable when combined with the ingredients, which is intriguing. The rice itself is sourced from contracted farmers in Higashiomi, Nagano Prefecture, and it's rice that has been wind-dried. The farmers let it rest and send it over regularly. The vinegar used is Iio Jozo's Akazu Premium 100% red vinegar. It has a sharp acidity and strong umami flavor. I felt that the vinegar punch had more depth than Yoko I's Yohei 100%. The techniques used have an overwhelming individuality. Aging is carried out through a unique approach. I had read the book "Tsukamoto-style and Aging [Tasting/Aging Method/Recipes]" co-authored by Master Shirayama, but I was still amazed. Aging in general enhances the umami of the fish and balances the texture and aroma. However, Master Shirayama transforms the texture and aroma of the fish to his ideal preferences rather than focusing on the original texture and aroma. The term "Alchemist of Fish" came to mind. Master Shirayama's work is characterized by a method of extracting moisture from the fish during the aging process. In addition to dehydration using salt or dry salting, drying (air-drying) is also included, making it completely different from the traditional Edo-style aging process of "resting." Another unique aspect is the alternating combination of "shime" (finishing) and aging in the traditional Edo-style process. For some ingredients, after the finishing, they are salted and aged, then finished again. It's such an evolutionary technique that only Master Shirayama can fully grasp. For a particular ingredient, they perform vinegar finishing twice before aging, then finish again with vinegar after aging, and repeat the process. Master Shirayama is the "Alchemist of Fish," and "Jukusei Sushi Ban" is like a "Lab of Aging." In fact, Master Shirayama refers to scientific papers and collaborates on research with a marine university. Who would have thought that the day would come when we talk about sushi chefs and searching for research papers on J-STAGE?