かるねつばら
"Keninji Maruyama" has been maintaining its position as a prestigious Kyoto cuisine establishment for a long time. This was my first visit to the restaurant. The private rooms are furnished with tatami mats, tables, and chairs. We opted for the 15,000 yen course menu (plus 15% service charge) for dinner, which included the following dishes:
- Appetizer: Grilled beef, ginkgo nuts, shiitake mushrooms, pine nuts, and turnip miso wrapped in magnolia leaves
- Hassun: Hokkaido scallop, sweetfish, and simmered gelatin
- Soup: Steamed turnip, matsutake mushrooms, and crab meat
- Grilled dish and side dish: Grilled fish, chirashi sushi with bracken, baby bamboo shoots, salmon roe, and rolled omelette
- Simmered dish: Lotus root, burdock root, pumpkin, green beans, turnip, and mashed ingredients
- Delicacy: Rock seaweed and white fish vinegar dish, persimmon, bonito flakes, lily bulbs, and white sesame dressed nameko mushrooms, sea urchin, and minari
- Rice: Minced root vegetables, minari, and beef cooked rice, miso soup, and pickles
- Dessert: Persimmon, muscat grapes, pear, sherbet, white bean paste shiratama zenzai, and matcha green tea
The dishes that left a lasting impression were the appetizer and delicacy. The magnolia leaf grilled dish was served on a hot stone with beef, ginkgo nuts, shiitake mushrooms, and miso, providing a visually striking and warm start to the meal. The delicacy of persimmon, bonito flakes, and lily bulbs in white sesame dressing was elegantly presented in a hollowed-out persimmon, offering a delightful blend of flavors and textures. The special bamboo sake (Tamano Hikari special junmai ginjo, 2 cups for 4,500 yen) from Kyoto was smooth and exceptional. The overall experience was a nostalgic and seasonal journey through familiar ingredients presented in a traditional Kyoto cuisine style. Despite the lack of a strong sense of exclusivity, the meal evoked a sense of comfort and familiarity reminiscent of childhood memories. During the meal, the owner, Mr. Maruyama, came to greet us and emphasized the importance of intangible elements in their cooking. While the restaurant may not exude a strong sense of luxury, it offers a unique blend of nostalgia and seasonal essence within the realm of traditional Kyoto cuisine.