Before I knew it, it had been 5 years since I last visited Nakazen in Kitashirakawa, Kyoto. Located a little past the corner of the supermarket Daikokuya, the restaurant exudes the atmosphere of a renowned establishment, yet the warm smiles that greet you make it feel very welcoming. Inside, there is a counter at the front and table seating at the back. This time, I sat at the counter. The first dish was "Yamaimo Kan," made with yamaimo and a bit of agar, topped with mountain vegetables. The gentle flavor left a lasting impression. Next, the sashimi course featured "Tai from Awaji." The slices were quite thick, providing a satisfying texture without being difficult to eat. The fish dishes continued with "Densuke Anago and Torigai." At first glance, it looked like conger eel, but it was actually densuke anago. The large, tender pieces had a fluffy texture and were delicious. The soup course was "Guj," fluffy and tender, with a unique dashi flavor from using gyokuro tea. From this point on, the sake started to flow, and my memory became a bit hazy. The hassun course, consisting of eight small dishes, included items like anago wrapped in bamboo leaves, Moroko fish in Nanban style, sea bream roe, fava beans, taro, and hidden aigamo duck. Each dish was a small delight to savor slowly. The saba sushi, wrapped in bamboo leaves, was flavored with sansho pepper, adding a delicious twist. The grilled fish course featured sea bass cooked in white sesame oil, with finely chopped kinome leaves enhancing the subtle flavor of the white fish. A dish in a bowl included duck, potatoes in a thick sauce, asparagus, and snow peas. Lastly, there was Ise Ebi (spiny lobster). By the end of the meal, my stomach was full. Nakazen's unique charm lies in the gradual progression of dishes that fill you up without you realizing it. It's important to be mindful of this, but the high level of satisfaction is worth it. I had a brief conversation with the chef about his love for hamburgers, which was quite interesting. Nakazen truly is a remarkable restaurant.

Based on a friend's recommendation, I made a reservation for Saturday at 7:00 pm and was able to do so even the day before. The owner seems to have trained at Kikunoi. We ordered a course around 15,000 yen. The dishes may not look fancy, but each one had a special touch and the taste was exceptional. The menu included seared prawns with hot spring egg soy sauce, red snapper sashimi, matsutake mushroom and conger eel steamed in a clay pot, barracuda sushi, salt-grilled sweetfish with tade vinegar, conger eel and kujo green onion simmered dish, snow crab wrapped in daikon radish simmered dish, matsutake mushroom and chestnut mixed rice, miso soup with mustard on the side, and many more that I forgot, I'm sorry. The portion size is generous, and some women may not be able to finish it all. Considering the amount, taste, and price, the cost performance is quite good. I will definitely go again.

I revisited this restaurant during my trip to Kansai this time. I got off at Hyakumanben and walked about 700m. I fully enjoyed the high temperature and humidity of Kyoto. When I arrived at the restaurant, the gentle female staff and the master welcomed me. It was full on this day, filled with elegant local regular customers. I think this is the mark of a good restaurant. The dishes included: Uni Tofu - an elegant dish with a refined taste of uni tofu served by the master who knows his ingredients well. The mellow broth is impressive. Chutoro, Tai - the refined texture of chutoro and the clean fat make it a delightful experience. The tai has a moist texture on the outside and a firm texture inside, with a noticeable umami flavor. Hamo from Numajima - the crispy skin and moist flesh of the hamo are a great contrast. The soft bones make it easy to eat. Hamo and Junsai Soup - the hamo has a fluffy texture that spreads in the mouth, and the use of ingredients is impressive. The fragrance of yuzu peel and seared red pepper adds a refreshing touch to the dish. Hassun - featuring asaza, Daikokuji-style fu with sesame vinegar, hamo sushi, tomato dashi soy sauce, egg yolk miso pickles, Biwako River shrimp, octopus roe, Moroko, edamame, mackerel cucumber. Each dish has an elegant flavor, and the scent and light texture of the river shrimp are amazing. The hamo sushi's sauce and texture are also impressive. Akagani from Awaji - a premium ingredient that is not often seen. The unique richness and lingering sweetness are delightful. It's my first time trying red crab, or if I have had it before, the impact of this meal is unforgettable. I wonder if I will have the opportunity to eat it again while it's still alive. Ayu from Lake Biwa - grilling live ayu by skewering it. The refreshing taste of the grilled ayu is impressive. Kamo eggplant, pumpkin, snow peas - a dish of vegetables with broth jelly poured over them. The texture of the pumpkin with a hint of crunch is impressive. Of course, the Kamo eggplant is also impressive. And the broth jelly with bonito flakes adds depth and aroma. Abalone and eggplant hot pot - this abalone is probably the softest I've ever had. It was cooked for eight hours. The moist flavor of the broth is also delicious. The eggplant that accompanies it is, needless to say, impressive. Hamo rice - the aroma is truly exceptional. The rice, with just the right amount of moisture, absorbs the broth beautifully, leaving you in ecstasy. The tororo mixed with broth, a culture not found in Kanto, is refreshing and delicious. Homemade matcha ice cream and peach - the smoothness of the matcha ice cream and the fragrance of matcha are delightful. This is amazing. The peach has a high sugar content and a deep flavor. Truly a quality that speaks for itself. I can't miss this restaurant on my next trip to Kyoto. Thank you for the meal.

On this day, I strolled through Uji during the day. In the evening, I took the Keihan train to Demachiyanagi, got off near Ginkakuji, and walked a few minutes to revisit Nakazen, a refined Japanese restaurant that I had in mind as a must-visit in Kyoto. The course for this visit included the following: - Torched mochi with spinach puree and soy milk - Fugu sashimi from Awaji Island - Tuna and ark shell sashimi - Grilled sweetfish with yuba - Assorted appetizers - Grilled Spanish mackerel and red madonna orange - Grilled fugu milt - Grilled octopus with honey and vinegar miso - Fried fugu fins - Crab rice - Strawberry sherbet - Overall, I was extremely satisfied with the exquisite ingredients and seasoning skills of the head chef. I realized once again how much I didn't know about the world of Japanese cuisine. This restaurant is a must-visit when in Kansai. I will definitely be back. Thank you for the wonderful meal.

The person who predicted the reign of the king of terror may have existed, but no one could have imagined the current pandemic situation like the coronavirus. Despite the trend of avoiding dining out, I revisited a familiar restaurant and would like to share my impressions. Please be aware that this may be a bit of a spoiler. Now, let's talk about Nakazen in Kitashirakawa. I have been a regular customer for over 10 years. It is a beloved restaurant for my husband and me. The owner has not changed, although I have entered my 40s, and he has a stable presence having earned Michelin stars being from Kikunoi. The prices for the lunch courses range from 10,000 to 12,000 yen, and they accommodate reservations if available. Recently, many high-end restaurants in Kyoto have increased their prices to over 30,000 yen per customer, but Nakazen remains a top-notch establishment in this price range. Some may argue against this, but in terms of quality, the fugu dish served at Nakazen could be larger and more focused on the essence of fugu. However, look at the portion size, and you can't help but feel the hospitality of "welcome to our home." The space is set for the two of us, the owner and the proprietress. The menu changes monthly, with February and September being special customer appreciation months with extraordinary lineups. Nakazen does not follow the trend of cutting down on the hassun or presenting it in a different way, but rather excels in this area. While not an extreme and exclusive establishment like Sotaro Takebayashi, Nakazen is a great introductory restaurant for Kyoto cuisine, in my opinion. The presentation of the dishes may not appeal to those who prefer a more refined style like Ogata, but this distinction is crucial in discussing Kyoto kaiseki. The owner's wife being a sommelier allows for enjoyable wine pairings with the Japanese cuisine, unlike Mikuri in Kiyamachi, where the focus is on the food first. The sake from Haneda Shuzo is also excellent. In conclusion, the wavelength of Nakazen may or may not match that of long-time Kyoto residents like us, but that does not matter when it comes to dining out in Kyoto. The hospitality of Kyoto's traditional restaurants is truly remarkable, and that is the essence of dining out. In times like these, I believe that sharing a meal and creating an atmosphere that can make people happy is the true purpose of dining out, and I am just grateful to be a part of that experience. This is my report on a special day spent at Nakazen.

This is my second visit to this restaurant since Bon 1 first landed in Kyoto. The biggest advantage of this place is that if you make a reservation one day in advance for lunch, you're usually good to go. It's very convenient when you suddenly decide to go to Kyoto. This time, I made a reservation two days in advance. On the day of our visit, there was only one other party besides us. We were able to enjoy authentic Kyoto cuisine slowly and leisurely. Next, let's talk about the pricing. Regardless of the cost-effectiveness, the prices seem to be about the same as when I visited before. In a time when many restaurants have doubled their prices, this is very much appreciated. These two points are important check points for me, indicating excellent service and true hospitality. There are many local customers, which is understandable. The staff this time consisted of the owner and one female staff member. The female staff member from my previous visit seems to have gotten married. Now, let me share the dishes we had on this day. Starting with daikon and walnut miso, followed by sashimi of white fish. Then, there was grilled live shrimp and striped jack, half-cooked shrimp heads, steamed dish, hassun, lemon-cooked ayu fish and sweet potato, anago simmered with sansho pepper, mixed rice with autumn vegetables, miso soup, and dessert. The dishes may not be Instagram-worthy, but they are proper Kyoto cuisine. The focus is on the quality of the ingredients, especially seafood. The dishes are delicious, with fresh and flavorful ingredients like fluffy conger eel, delicious ayu fish, large shrimp, and high-quality sashimi. However, the hassun and rice dishes were a bit lacking in flavor this time. The flavors seemed a bit weak, and the dessert could use some improvement. Overall, I still enjoyed the meal. If you can't get a reservation at your preferred restaurant or if you're a beginner in Kyoto, I recommend starting at Chuzen for Kyoto cuisine. After setting this restaurant as your standard for Kyoto cuisine, you can explore various other restaurants in the area. Kyoto has a diverse range of unique and charming restaurants, from high-end counter-style restaurants popular with out-of-town guests to local favorites and places that mix Western and Japanese cuisine. You'll likely fall in love with the charm of Kyoto. Give it a try. Thank you for the meal.

I visited a Michelin-starred restaurant in 2020 that wasn't highly rated on "Tabelog" (3.71 as of September 2020) out of curiosity. I made a reservation 4 days in advance. I didn't check much about the restaurant except that it was in Kyoto. The day before, I found out that it was a bit far from the city center, about a 10-minute bus ride from Demachiyanagi Station on the Keihan Line followed by a 2-3 minute walk. It's relatively close to "Kusabue Nakahigashi." When I arrived, there were 2 guests, regular customers. The restaurant had a bright and clean interior with a counter for 6 and a table for 4, run by a couple. There were a total of 8 guests in 4 groups that day. The meal options were ¥8,500 and ¥12,000, and I had reserved the latter. The dishes included grilled eggplant with dashi jelly, sashimi of sea bream and young Japanese amberjack, grilled shrimp head, soup with conger eel and matsutake mushroom, and various other seasonal dishes. The meal was impressive, with a good selection of seasonal ingredients within the set budget. The interaction with the chef, who prepared dishes like grilled shrimp head and salt-grilled sweetfish in front of us, added to the lively atmosphere. The presentation of dishes like the grilled shrimp head, conger eel soup, and salt-grilled sweetfish was visually stunning. Overall, it's a reasonable option for authentic kaiseki cuisine in Kyoto, even though it's a bit far from the city center. We left at 8:40 PM with 5 guests remaining, and the bill came to ¥14,685 after having 2 servings of sake.

Before this trip, I mentioned to the master at a local Kyoto cuisine restaurant that I had never been to an authentic Kyoto-style restaurant before. He recommended this restaurant and made a reservation for me on the spot. The location is near Kitashirakawa, just a few minutes' walk from a 24-hour parking lot with a 700 yen limit. The restaurant is run by the owner, Mr. Sasaki, and a stylish older sister, with a small interior of 6 counter seats and a 4-person table. You can expect high-quality ingredients and a clear atmosphere. The course for this visit included: - Steamed conger eel with plum paste: The soft eel and flavorful paste were delicious. - Akashi natural sea bream: The fresh, firm sea bream was delightful. - Sashimi platter with horse mackerel, ark shell, and Yura red sea urchin: The textures and flavors were amazing. - Clam soup: A flavorful clam soup with deep flavors and delicious vegetables. - Hors d'oeuvre platter: The mackerel sushi and taro sprout tempura were outstanding. - Biwako shrimps: The fresh shrimps had a unique texture and flavor. - Firefly squid with strawberry vinegar: The thick and juicy squid paired well with the strawberry vinegar. - Round hot pot: The sophisticated and delicious hot pot was a delight. - Fried tofu, turban shell, and new seaweed rice: The rice with turban shell and fried tofu was flavorful. - Spinach miso soup: A sweet and flavorful miso soup with spinach. - Citrus jelly and soy milk: Lightly sweet citrus jelly with a refreshing soy milk jelly. I was impressed by the chef's skills, the quality of the ingredients, and the surprisingly affordable bill. I will definitely make a reservation here again before my next trip to Kyoto. Thank you for the wonderful meal.

It is generally thought that traditional Japanese restaurants in Kyoto have a high threshold, and I myself thought so in my late 20s. One shop that impressed me with authentic kaiseki cuisine in Kyoto, probably for the first time, is Nakazen in Kitashirakawa. Since then, I have been visiting the restaurant almost every month or season with my now-wife, whom I married later. This time, marking about 5 years since our registration, I visited the restaurant for the first time in about 5 years. Nakazen is a well-known Kyoto restaurant, founded by the master of Kikunoi. The head chef occasionally reveals words and teachings received from the master of Kikunoi, and you can catch a glimpse of the core as a "restaurant" that should not be compromised. It was a wonderful time that I resonated with. In the many conversations we had, one of the words the head chef received from the master is this: "We are a restaurant, not just a place to eat." This means that because we are a restaurant, we should provide "cuisine," and because we are a place to eat, we should provide food to be eaten. I interpreted and understood this content. Pursuing good ingredients like a sushi restaurant is good, but as professionals in cooking, the added value that comes with it is inevitable. However, setting a detached added value from this side is beyond the scope of being a "restaurant." In the realm of dining as entertainment, if we focus too much on "food," we may deviate from the purpose of "enjoyment." Ultimately, the place where I can secure time to spend on one meal by paying a fee is a "restaurant" like Nakazen that suits me. Now, enough of this pretentious sermon, let's talk about the meal. The price was raised five years ago but has remained the same since then, with the high-end course priced at 12,000 yen (excluding tax). Lunch reservations are still accepted if available. This was actually my first time having lunch, and I requested the higher course. As a restaurant, they plan the menu on the 1st of every month. So, it's not the same dishes every time, which adds to the excitement. Especially in February and September, there is a customer appreciation month with a very rewarding menu. The photo shows a menu that incorporates Nakazen's uniqueness into the flow of kaiseki cuisine (February 2020). There was sashimi, shirako, fried chicken, a soup, and the main dish was a turtle hot pot. They generously offer high-quality ingredients, and it's a filling meal (laughs). Most importantly, we were able to spend some time alone as a couple, and we both returned home with smiles, thinking that this is the place for us. I'll say it again, Kyoto's restaurants may have a high threshold, but first, visit Nakazen. I highly recommend this place to young people. Thank you for listening (lol).

I have visited this restaurant many times, and I always wonder if it's okay to eat such delicious food at this price! The dashi broth is rich, and you can tell that the dishes are made with care down to the smallest detail. The staff are attentive and make sure you have a pleasant time. At the end of the course, they serve takikomi gohan, but I always end up too full to eat more. However, they offer to make onigiri for you to take home if you can't finish it. It's a nice touch. The dishes are served in beautiful plates chosen by the owner to enhance the presentation. Among the dishes I tried this time, the tai fish wrapped in yuba and topped with suri-nagashi was the most delicious. I will definitely visit again.

A highly recommended lunch spot in Kyoto is "割烹 露庵 菊乃井," where you can enjoy a course for 8500 yen. The restaurant, led by Kenji Sasaki who trained at Kikunoi for 10 years, offers a lively atmosphere where you can watch the chefs prepare dishes in front of you. The traditional Japanese cuisine served includes seasonal delicacies like fuki no tou and tsukushi, with meticulous attention to detail. The restaurant is located near Ginkakuji Temple and can be easily accessed from Kyoto Station. Enjoy a variety of dishes such as steamed anago, sashimi, and crab rice, accompanied by a selection of drinks including Prosecco and sake.

I visited here based on the recommendation of a gourmet friend. The soft brightness of the interior feels like entering a different world from the hustle and bustle of the town. The clean and tense atmosphere unique to Japanese restaurants is definitely appealing. The friendly proprietress's customer service is very pleasant. The head chef shows both a quiet side as a cook and a friendly side when talking. The dishes are excellent! It's a luxurious meal even for lunch (laughs). Definitely a place to enjoy slowly while having a drink at night. Steamed conger eel, Tai fish from Akashi, Daikokuji natto, Beltfish and firefly squid, Hamaguri clam soup, Uni and egg tofu, Saba sushi, Shrimp and taro root dumplings, Butterbur sprouts and bracken tempura, Kinkan citrus, Crab with yam, Carrot and duck, Karasumi and sake lees, Tender octopus simmered in soy sauce, Firefly squid and petit base, Strawberry vinegar and mustard miso with Tonburi, Black beer, Nishiki pickled crab rice, Spinach with white miso, Yomogi mochi, Matcha white dumplings.

The general said it's Customer Appreciation Month, while Kisaragi laughed. February is the peak season for fugu and it's coming to an end, but it's also a delicious time. The classic appetizer is grated rice cakes with spinach. The sashimi includes a variety of fugu, ark shell, and bluefin tuna, all very satisfying. The meal includes a tofu skin soup, grilled shirako, assorted appetizers, grilled blowfish, hot pot, and for the main dish, crab cooked in rice with fragrant side dishes and miso soup. We enjoyed Hoegaarden beer, Sora beer (both cold and warm), Shichihonyari sake (warm), and also had wine in glasses. Thank you for the delicious meal.

In November (Frost Month), it's best to visit during the day. I made a reservation three days in advance and surprisingly there was availability during the autumn foliage season. This time, a young couple moved from a table to join us at the counter, making it a group of four for the meal. I started with a Hoegaarden to wet my throat. The appetizer was a steamed dish with a rich taro and soy milk base. For sashimi, we had fresh sea bream from Akashi and fatty tuna with red sea urchin. The Kumamoto shrimp was extra large and the head came later, grilled. The steamed dish had gudgeon and chrysanthemum greens with chestnuts. The eight-course meal included a Matsukaze with daikon, walnuts, and persimmon in yuzu. Grilled swordfish sushi, peanuts from Ohara, and other dishes paired well with drinks. The grilled dish was snapper on cedar plank with shiitake mushrooms. The hot pot had fluffy conger eel in a sweet broth. The vinegar dish had horsehair crab, codium, and egg yolk. The meal ended with sea urchin and salmon roe rice, red miso soup, and pickles. For dessert, there was walnut ice cream and persimmon. The omakase course was 12,000 yen, while the neighboring table had a different omakase course. I found the lunch experience more relaxed and enjoyable compared to dinner.

It's the season of September, and I left the dishes up to the chef. The meal started with walnut tofu and grilled grapes, followed by delicious sea bream and yellowtail. The soup course featured conger eel, matsutake mushrooms, and egg tofu. The assorted dish included tea beans, conger eel, boiled gourd, ginkgo nuts, sweetened ayu fish, chicken liver, and mackerel sushi. The grilled dish featured live ayu fish and beautifully sized raw shrimp. The strong-flavored dish was steamed abalone with liver sauce. The vinegar dish included scallops, chili peppers, okra, and pear sauce. The simmered dish was a combination of goby fish. For the meal, there was sea urchin rice with red miso soup and pickles. I couldn't finish everything, so I had my friend take some home. The dessert was tofu sorbet, black tea jelly, and pear chrysanthemum. The monthly course incorporated the flow of the Kikunoi river and showcased the chef's unique touch. I always enjoy listening to interesting stories and appreciate the chef's thoughtful gestures.

Located in a quiet residential area of Kitashirakawa, Nakazen is a small and cozy restaurant with a counter seating for 6 and a table for 4. Behind it, you'll find Ramen Mastani, known for its rich and oily ramen. Nearby, there's Nakahigashi, a well-known establishment that has gained the support of locals since the head chef left Kikunoi and opened his own place. Despite being low-key and unassuming, Nakazen has managed to earn a Michelin star every year, which is quite impressive. Initially, they served meals for just one 1,000 yen, including tax, making it a great value for the quality of food offered. Over time, the prices have increased slightly, but the regulars and locals continue to enjoy the calm and welcoming atmosphere. In a city like Kyoto, with many high-end and exclusive restaurants, Nakazen stands out as a valuable option in terms of price range. Currently, they only offer omakase courses priced at 8,500 yen and 12,000 yen, excluding tax. I had the 12,000 yen omakase course in July, which started with a refreshing Hoegaarden beer. The meal included various dishes such as steamed sea bream and prawn, grilled conger eel, saba sushi, fried shirako, and more. Each dish was expertly prepared and showcased the chef's skill in selecting high-quality ingredients. The meal ended with a delicious sea urchin rice dish and warabi mochi, showcasing the seasonal flavors. The sake selection was also impressive, with options like Hoegaarden White, Aosoraku Junmai, and Kigarunaga Junmai. Despite the departure of an apprentice, the chef's dedication and attention to detail were evident in every dish. I was impressed by the consistent quality and service at Nakazen and look forward to returning soon.

I arrived in Kyoto for the first time in 9 months since January. It's been over 10 years since I had such a long gap. I was filled with excitement from the moment I left Tokyo. I had some concerns about trying out new restaurants, but the outcome was a definite "hit!" The dishes were made with carefully selected ingredients such as ayu, conger eel, and matsutake mushrooms. The cooking was like a textbook example of how it should be done. From the appetizer of sea bream from Akashi with kabosu and seaweed salt, to grilling the prawns and dipping them in egg yolk soy sauce, every dish was incredibly delicious. The hassun and dobin mushi were like delicate works of art. The chilled hiyaoroshi from Kokuryu was exceptional. In particular, the grilled ayu with eggs was cooked perfectly, leaving the fish slightly alive on the skewer, opening the mouth to drain the oil, and grilling it to perfection. The skill of the chef was evident in this dish. The sound of cutting the conger eel bones, a sound I hadn't heard in a while, was refreshing. By the time the course of conger eel and tofu was served, I was already feeling full, and I had to take most of the matsutake and chestnut rice home. The clientele was elegant and the whole restaurant had a great atmosphere. The prices were also very reasonable. I must visit this restaurant again. This is the third gem I have discovered at last.

A high-end Kyoto cuisine restaurant where you can watch the chefs prepare your meal right in front of you. The 8000 yen course seems promising!

It is a rare find among authentic Kyoto cuisine restaurants, with good value for money and a wide variety of dishes. The elegant atmosphere of the restaurant filled with the scent of Kyoto made our conversation lively. We visited as a group of three, including two women, and the attentive service, which even included recommendations for future visits, made us feel relieved. The 12,000 yen course we enjoyed was so satisfying that we felt it could easily have been priced at 20,000 yen. This popular restaurant is popular for a reason, and we could feel that in every bite.

Wonderful, each dish is carefully prepared with care for the ingredients, and you can taste the heartfelt effort put into the cooking. The true joy of dining, making you feel happy after each bite, is what this restaurant delivers.

- Red rice wrapped in yuba with ginger and sea urchin sauce - Tai (sea bream) sashimi with grated wasabi and soy sauce, garnished with shiso leaves - Red clam and fatty tuna sashimi with spicy daikon radish, served with grated wasabi, soy sauce, and egg yolk sauce, garnished with shiso leaves, julienne carrots, and red turnips - Steamed turnip with sea urchin, wasabi, and needle seaweed, topped with fried ginkgo nuts - Assorted appetizers: black soybeans simmered in honey, pickled vegetables, steamed monkfish liver, boiled soybeans, red sea cucumber in vinegar, simmered baby fish, karasumi wrapped in sake lees, carabinero shrimp, spicy lotus root, candied kumquats - Grilled mackerel marinated in miso with sprinkled yuzu zest - Tempura of cloud ear fungus and lotus root stem with ponzu jelly, garnished with chopped green onions and flower buds, served with julienned carrots, red radish, and yuzu mochi with sesame dressing, accompanied by sudachi citrus - Grilled clams - Octopus with cherry blossoms and chopped kujo green onions, topped with chopped yuzu - Crab rice with crispy rice crackers and yuzu, mixed with crab miso - New Year's soup with a light and refreshing taste - Pickled vegetables - Yogurt ice cream topped with yuzu paste, locally sourced strawberries, and wild strawberries