レールモントフ
In the rainy month of February, snowflakes dance in the heart of Kyoto, and the snow is far from melting. For lunch today, I quietly visit a place tucked away in a corner just off the charming Hanami Koji street. As I step through the entrance adorned with a splendid cedar ball, I am seated at a table in the back, with a beautiful white wooden counter catching my eye on the side. For my drink, I start with a beer (Heartland - 840 yen) as the first sip of beer always seems necessary on a cold day. After a toast, I decide to pair my meal with a Kyoto Fushimi junmai matsumoto sake (960 yen). The meal I requested today (6000 yen) includes:
- "Appetizers": A beautifully arranged assortment inspired by the Peach Festival. It includes dance-like tofu made to look like Hishimochi with Kinshi Tamago, topped with Ikura and grated wasabi, followed by a dish of clams with ginger served in a hina doll-shaped container, a salad of leeks, sarubo shellfish, and torigai in vinegar miso dressing in a cute hina doll container, a dish of fuki buds with mustard dressing in a large clam shell, kinpira of fava beans, red konjac, and udo, simmered shrimp, pine nut castella, fuki bud tempura, and a plate of hirame with peach buds. The dance-like tofu is made with peanuts and has a firm yet soft texture. The fuki buds provide a delightful subtle bitterness. The clams with ginger are a perfect match, offering a gentle flavor. Each dish is intricately prepared and delicious.
- "Soup": Steamed flounder with turnips, with a dashi broth garnished with nori, wasabi, and sweet potatoes. The texture of the lily bulbs adds a nice touch, and the broth is delicately flavored. Mixing in the wasabi creates a whole new flavor profile that is refreshing.
- "Sashimi": Flounder from Kumamoto, surume squid, and honmaguro tuna from Amakusa. Served with three condiments: Okinawan natural salt, sesame oil, yuzu salt, and soy sauce. The squid and yuzu salt complement each other well, offering a soft and rich taste.
- "Grilled dish": Grilled Spanish mackerel with kuwai chips, honeyed flower beans, and pickled ginger. The Spanish mackerel surprisingly has a refreshing taste, with a crispy kuwai chips that are also delicious.
- "Palate cleanser": Inaniwa udon from Akita with grated Kyoto spicy daikon radish. The udon has a nice chewiness, and the spicy daikon radish is a refreshing and tasty accompaniment.
- "Fried dish": Crab shell tempura served with salted tomatoes and buds of rapeseed. The crab shell tempura is like a gratin croquette, filled with plenty of vegetables and crab, and paired with homemade rakkyo and egg vinegar. The salted tomatoes are sweet and have a jelly-like texture, while the rapeseed buds add a slightly bitter taste that complements the dish.
- "Rice dish": Icefish porridge with pickled vegetables such as suguki, hakusai, and daikon. Icefish is in season now, and the porridge is enjoyed with slightly sour suguki, fresh hakusai, and sweet daikon pickled in beer.
- "Dessert": Blood orange, atemoya from Okinawa, strawberries from Saga, and warm pudding. The blood orange has a rich and refreshing acidity. Atemoya is a rare fruit with a short cultivation period, offering a milky and moist taste. The freshly made warm pudding is subtly sweet and has an adult-like flavor.
Starting from the appetizers, the meal consisted of eight courses, each offering a satisfying dining experience. The dishes were served in elegant vessels, including beautiful pieces of Shimizu-yaki pottery, and the antique glasses added to the charm. Each dish showcased attention to detail and quality.