辣油は飲み物
"Kyoto Kinmata" is one of the restaurants I most wanted to visit in Kyoto, which can be considered a "holy land of Japanese cuisine." I encountered it while exploring the Nishiki Market area and was drawn to its charming exterior. Despite its founding dating back to 1801, the cuisine is of impeccable taste even for modern palates. There is no hint of old-fashionedness; rather, it exudes a refined sense of style. Personally, I prefer Kyoto cuisine that is grounded in tradition over flashy, hard-to-book establishments that have become popular recently.
The charm of "Kyoto Kinmata" lies in its solid traditional techniques infused with a touch of playfulness. Dishes like the appetizer "Live Sea Urchin in Amber Kanten" and the fried dish "Fig Tempura" express a modern sensibility while maintaining an elegant essence. This type of cuisine is truly worth experiencing in Kyoto. The seasonal expressions are spot on, and the gradual adjustment of flavors and textures is impressive. The approach of changing sweetness and textures step by step to heighten excitement is masterful. Within the subtle flavors, you can feel the robustness of tradition.
I had the pleasure of trying the following sake:
- Haneda Shuzo, Gohyakumangoku Junmai Ginjo 2,185 yen
- Higashiyama Shuzo, Konteki Hiyaroshi Junmai Sake 2,415 yen
The above prices include consumption tax and service charge.
The "Lunch Kaiseki" I enjoyed was priced at 12,650 yen (including tax and service charge) and included the following dishes:
Appetizer: Live Sea Urchin in Amber Kanten
Sashimi: Sea Bream, Mackerel
Steamed Dish: Autumn Eggplant, Sweet Potato, Green Soybeans
Fried Dish: Fig Tempura
Grilled Dish: Ayu (sweetfish with roe)
Rice Dish: Matsutake Mushroom Rice, Clear Soup, Pickles
Dessert: Fig Yokan
The appetizer of "Live Sea Urchin in Amber Kanten" was intriguing with the use of kanten made with sea urchin. The addition of grated pear and tofu was a curious touch that piqued my interest. Starting with a seasonal dish sets the tone, and it elevates the excitement of Japanese cuisine. The kanten had a rich dashi flavor, and the texture of grated nagaimo (Chinese yam) added a nice accent. The gentle sweetness and aroma of the pear supported the rich flavor of the sea urchin. The flavor composition was well thought out.
The sashimi of sea bream and mackerel was refreshing, with yuba (tofu skin) as an accompaniment. I appreciated the use of tuna-free sashimi, as it showed creativity beyond the usual cost-saving measures. The sea bream had a fragrant aroma and a savory umami taste. The mackerel was fresh and had a nice balance of fat. The yuba was thick and had a dense texture, and the wasabi was undoubtedly authentic. It was impeccable.
The steamed dish of autumn eggplant, sweet potato, and green soybeans showcased the sweetness and a well-balanced composition. The eggplant was tender and delicious, the green soybeans were crunchy, and the sweet potato had a soft texture. The sweet potato stood out with its sweetness and refreshing aroma, and the texture was not overly soft, showcasing skill and taste.
The fried dish of fig tempura was served with a rich dipping sauce, and it was delightful! The combination of the sweetness of the fig, the savory aroma of the bonito dashi, and the nutty flavor of the rice cracker powder harmonized well. The marinated duck was fantastic, with a delightful ginger soy sauce-like flavor. The cooking was excellent, and it was not at all soggy.
The grilled sweetfish with roe was a highlight, using Hiroshima-sourced sweetfish in a year of poor harvest. It was incredibly delicious and showcased individuality within tradition.
Overall, the experience at "Kyoto Kinmata" was exceptional, with each dish meticulously crafted to showcase the flavors of the season and the skill of the chef. The attention to detail and the balance of flavors and textures made it a memorable dining experience.