レールモントフ
At the foot of Mount Imakasu, where fine snow dances, is Jusei-in. Perhaps it's the season when butterbur flowers bloom in the garden attributed to Eitoku. After reminiscing about Hikarunari, I head to Arashiyama on the Randen train. On such a cold day, I want to warm up with yudofu, so I walk on the quaint stone pavement and decide to have Saga Morika's yudofu at this place, a former residence of the Konoe family that has been renovated. I pass through the noren, enter the entrance, and am guided to a lovely room where I can hear the murmuring of the Arashiyama stream. For lunch, I requested the Matsuba course (4,160 yen). Although I would usually opt for hot sake on a cold day, I'm not a fan of warm alcohol, so I decide to go with a bottle of Ebisu beer (880 yen) here. Soon enough, the beer and dishes are brought out. The "apéritif" is plum wine. It's sweet and goes down smoothly, perfect for a sip. Then, a toast with beer. The "appetizer" is a dish of Morika's tofu with wolfberries, sprinkled with Miyako Island snow salt. The light snow-like salt complements the delicate tofu perfectly, capturing the essence of Morika's Saga tofu and tasting delicious. The "hassun" consists of various dishes in a red lacquered octagonal box, including sesame tofu, lotus root with sesame dressing, apple and black bean salad, three-color raw salmon sushi roll, Kinshi tamago, steamed shrimp, kamaboko with potatoes and wasabi, fried taro, grilled mackerel, raw yuba roll with cheese and ham, burdock with cream cheese, and chicken chashu with twelve items, all vibrant and very luxurious. Each dish was delicious, with the sesame tofu being rich, lotus root having a crunchy texture that pairs well with sesame, and the raw salmon sushi roll being exquisite in texture and taste. The "tawara-no-mono" is Saga Morika's yudofu, with kombu beneath the tofu and pine needle-fu on top. The fine-grained, smooth, and flavorful tofu warms the body on a cold day. You can have a refill (500 yen), but the portion is quite filling, so I decide to finish off the broth with kombu dashi. The "tsukemono" is fried tofu with a thick, velvety sauce that complements the soft tofu well. The "rice" is served with white rice, powdered sansho pepper, and pickles. The three colors of Shibazuke, daikon, and Minohana are visually appealing. The powdered sansho pepper is slightly dry, not too strong, and adds a natural flavor to the rice. The "mizugashi" is tofu ice cream drizzled with black honey and served with nama yatsuhashi. The small ice crystals inside the tofu ice cream provide a refreshing texture, complementing the sweetness of the black honey. In total, there were six dishes, a mini kaiseki centered around tofu. Saga Morika's tofu lived up to expectations, and the hassun was visually stunning, blending Japanese and Western elements with creative textures, like a delightful toy box full of surprises. I felt the changing nature of the Arashiyama gorge before me, was soothed by the landlady's calligraphy hanging all around, and enjoyed a blissful moment satisfying all my senses with heartfelt dishes. Thank you for the feast. I would love to visit again.