covakazu
One of the three long-established inns in Kyoto. I had stayed at Tawaraya in 2015. Since I live in Nishinomiya, it only takes a little over an hour to get to Kyoto. Staying in Kyoto is a special occasion for those who cannot return to Japan for a while due to work or for a short visit during their stay, and it is not common to stay overnight somewhere that can be visited on a day trip unless it is a hot spring area (such as Arima Onsen nearby). This inn also has a history of about 200 years, and although there have been countless famous guests in the past, I had to cancel my reservation for Yasunari Kawabata's room, which I had booked when returning temporarily last April, due to COVID-19, so I made a new reservation for my return this time. I have read most of Yasunari Kawabata's representative novels, and I have stayed at "Yumoto-kan" in Naka-Izu, famous for his early works, as well as "Fukudaya" located further south. It is interesting to trace something related to a favorite author. The inn is divided into the main building and the new building. Initially, I enjoyed tea and sweets in a place like the large hall in the new building, and my room is located at the back of the main building. It seems to belong to the oldest part in the history of additions. It is a rectangular room with two adjoining rooms, with a garden on the left side facing the back and the side. There is a small two-person table in the back, from which you can overlook the garden. It is calming to see a well-maintained Japanese garden. Looking through the old, distorted glass, you can see insects swarming like mosquito coils, so I refrained from opening the window to avoid trouble, but I still enjoyed the view. I ordered dinner at 7 o'clock and until then I relaxed in my room, reading the newspaper or a book. I enjoyed the tranquility. The dishes are as shown in the photos, not overly elaborate but in line with the season, not extravagant but sincere. The soup consisted of abalone, fish cake with tangerine zest, and yuzu flower. The sashimi was made with swordfish, sea bream, and squid, enjoyed with vinegar, salt, and soy sauce. The visually pleasing "hassun" included eel roll, squid ink, fried beans, lily bulb, abalone, Daitoku-ji temple wheat gluten, asparagus, and shrimp. By this time, I had already ordered sake and was enjoying it. The main grilled dish was bamboo shoot balls, duck, and flower sansho pepper sauce. Spring in Kyoto is truly wonderful. The rice was burdock rice, and of course, I had seconds. I drank about three cups of sake, ate very refined Kyoto cuisine, and was satisfied. After that, I relaxed for a while and then bathed in the takano maki bath in the room. Since there were enough rooms for two people, we did not spend time in the room near the entrance, so even just the main room of 10 tatami mats would have been fine. The attendant explained that Yasunari Kawabata visited this room exclusively with his family. He seemed to have written in a different 8-tatami mat room. Staying at such inns for several days and eating such feasts every day is impossible. If it were someone as lean as Yasunari Kawabata, it would be even more so. Perhaps there is some special consideration for a famous person like him. Fortunately, there were no guests upstairs that day, but because it is an old structure, if there were guests above, even slight noises might be disturbing. I like staying in old Japanese buildings, but this aspect always concerns me. It was before COVID-19 rapidly spread, but even at that time, the number of guests might have been low. That turned out to be fortunate. It cost a little over 65,000 yen for one person. Well, it's expensive. But still, it's fine. I had been unable to return for a long time. In a situation where I cannot return frequently, I cannot indulge too often. It's like investing the money I saved from not being able to return there. Holly was used throughout the room's furnishings. They must have collected or had them custom-made. I did not search every nook and cranny to see where they were.