The chef runs the small restaurant alone, so the ingredients are limited, and you can't expect elaborate dishes. However, each dish served by the master is charming. The salt-grilled ayu is vivid. It is not the crispy type that is usual, but rather rich. Enjoy it alternately with the also rich homemade yuzu. If you're not a fan of ayu, you might be out of luck, but those who love rich flavors will surely be hooked. It goes well with sake. Next came the fried figs. It refreshingly washes away the strong scent of fish. The soup in the bowl is a stunning masterpiece right in the middle of tradition. I enjoyed the wonderful broth slowly. The simmered vegetables leave a lingering impression of elegant sweetness. The furnishings are all carefully selected. Master, stay healthy forever.

The owner, who truly seems to love cooking, serves meticulously crafted traditional Japanese cuisine. The Kamo eggplant was delicious!

On Friday, I suddenly got a day off... I decided to go to Kyoto! Even though it's Kyoto, it was easy to find accommodation on a weekday in this cold season. Just a room without meals is fine. I want to go to a restaurant with high Tabelog points. However, I couldn't make a reservation at a starred restaurant. The third reservation request was for "Kuzushi Kaiseki En." The ratings are high and it seems a bit interesting haha. It's located a bit away from the downtown area, on the northwest side of Kyoto Imperial Palace. It's a small restaurant with only 7 counter seats, run by one person. I heard that they trained at a famous restaurant and are considered pioneers of creative kaiseki cuisine. When you enter the restaurant, there is a casual and friendly atmosphere. Since I ordered the chef's choice course, they confirmed only the drinks and small dishes started coming out like appetizers. Bonito with sake lees, sea urchin, cream cheese with mullet roe. All homemade. Delicious and complement the sake perfectly... It continues with dishes that are great for sipping sake little by little. Sashimi assortment, Kyoto-style miso soup with fried tofu, grilled Moroko from Lake Biwa with smoked yuzu vinegar and yuzu peel. Eel and taro simmered in ginger and miso, grilled duck and shimeji mushrooms, sea bream rice, simmered red beans and rice cakes. Enjoying a little bit of each delicious dish... The sake is also delicious, and I was able to relax and enjoy the meal very much. Thank you for the feast.

This is a traditional Japanese restaurant located along the street in front of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. After visiting Nijo Castle and admiring the autumn colors around the Imperial Palace, we made a reservation here about a month ago. Surrounded by a counter with only 7 seats, we enjoyed the chef's heartfelt dishes. The 5000 yen lunch course started with a smooth white miso salad. The sashimi of sea bream and squid was paired with Niigata sake "Tsuru no Tomo". The sea bream shinjo and wheat gluten soup had a hint of yuzu fragrance and shimeji mushrooms. The grilled dish was miso and yuzu marinated mackerel. It was cooked just right, tender and flavorful. The accompanying yubeshi was rich and paired perfectly with sake. The sea bream rice made with sticky rice had a subtle bitterness from homemade fish sauce. I wanted seconds. After the turnip and wheat gluten soup soaked in a gentle broth, we had rice. I couldn't resist getting a second helping of the perfectly cooked rice, not too hard nor too soft. Dessert was warm red beans with a simple and delicious sweetness. The casual conversation with the large-bodied chef, Mr. Suzuki, who seems fittingly called "Oyakata" (head chef), created a relaxed atmosphere for enjoying the meal. It was a restaurant that made me want to come back again.

After seeing it introduced on a certain TV program for the first time, we were intrigued by this thing called "Kuzushi Kaiseki" and made a reservation promptly. This day, shortly after the New Year, we visited with high spirits after drawing the "Dai-Dai-Kichi" fortune at Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine.❤ ----[Location]---- Although the transportation is not bad, the surrounding area is known for having very few dining options, it's what you might call a "passing-through area." ----[Interior]---- The relatively small space with only a counter has a calm and gentle atmosphere, possibly due to the spacious area in front of the counter. The quiet yet talkative owner and the cheerful and fun atmosphere created by the balance between the two owners is quite charming, isn't it?♪ ----[Food Received]---- We had reserved an 8,000 yen course. Since it was early January, we were served traditional New Year's dishes.①Black bean and persimmon namasu The black beans cooked over 5 days had a refreshing and sharp taste with a hint of dancing sweetness that was new to me.②Sashimi (striped jack, flying squid, sea bream) The fatty striped jack had quite a presence and was very satisfying. The freshly grated wasabi served in front of us was truly fragrant and enhanced the flavors.③Zoni As expected in Kyoto, it was made with white miso and had a noticeably sweet and thick Kyoto-like flavor. It was simple with only daikon, carrot, "kaku-mochi," and "norito katsuobushi." The "norito katsuobushi" was a first for me, and the owner mentioned that there are few shops in Kyoto that make this type of katsuobushi. Despite its simplicity, it was a comforting dish that warmed you from within.④Grilled mackerel with saikyo miso The fluffy mackerel with a rich saikyo miso flavor was delightful. It was served with "miso yubeshi," another first for me. It had been dried all winter, and upon tasting it, the concentrated aroma of yuzu, sweetness, and bitterness burst in your mouth.⑤Kanmoroko I had eaten kanmoroko several times before, but this time it was made with roe. The juicy texture of the eggs was enjoyable. It was not salt-grilled but baked in olive oil, giving it a different texture and flavor.⑥Tai-meshi Apart from the "last rice," we were served tai-meshi made with glutinous rice towards the end. The moist texture and the fragrant shredded sea bream on top were a perfect match. It was a tai-meshi that went very well with sake.⑦Steamed dish Using conger eel and sea bream roe, the dish had a delicate and mild seasoning. The richness and fattiness of the conger eel did not overpower the dish, allowing you to enjoy the textures and a well-balanced plate.⑧Kamameshi⑨Dessert: "Tonbo Persimmon" stuffed with Maichi's black beans This simple yet impactful dessert was impressive. Biting into the soft and mildly sweet dried persimmon, you would find large black beans inside. The black beans, with their strong presence, were a first for me! The combination of the moist and mildly sweet black beans with the dried persimmon was a perfect harmony. Since there was no menu for alcohol, we left it to the owner. It was a cold day, so we asked for cold sake. We had a total of four servings, which would be around 1,500 yen per serving. The owner manages everything alone on a regular basis.

On August 19, 2015 (Wednesday) for lunch, "Kuzushi Kyoto Kaiseki" is overflowing with playfulness. Playfulness is important. It's not just about entertaining others, but also about enjoying yourself. A restaurant in Kyoto, located in Imadegawa, has incorporated playfulness even into its name. The curtain only has characters, but the name reads "En - Nekoya Shirakawa", a play on words related to the nearby longstanding Japanese confectionery shop "Toraya", with the added twist of the Toraya owner being Mr. Kurokawa. This playfulness extends to the dishes as well. Despite having honed his skills under the tutelage of Mr. Yoshisaku Yamamoto at Hyotei for seven years, the chef proudly presents "Kuzushi Kaiseki". In Kyoto, this can be seen as an act of courage beyond mere playfulness. The head chef works alone. The counter exudes a pleasant woody scent. Despite the name "Kuzushi" (meaning broken), you can feel the meticulous attention to detail in each utensil and action. It's wonderful because there's playfulness built on a solid foundation. Starting with the "Sake Lees Pickled in Vinegar", served as an appetizer. It's rare to see sake lees pickled in vinegar, which dates back to the Asuka period. The owner explains that it's been around for so long that there's no other way to serve it. The playfulness extends not only to the dishes but also to a slightly self-deprecating tone that adds a unique charm to the Kyoto kaiseki atmosphere. The following "Sashimi" features sea bream. It possesses a transparency and firmness that embody everything white fish should have. The round-cut "Abalone Clear Soup" is flavorful with a hint of ginger, but the abalone seems slightly out of place. Next is the "Ayuyu" - a matured sweetfish served with tade vinegar. The fish's fat softens the bones, making it easy to eat even as a mature fish, reminiscent of how easy it is to eat young sweetfish. The fat content is just right for a mature fish. It's a perfect balance. The "Steamed Rice with Eel" highlights the sweetness of the eel. The steamed sticky rice absorbs the flavors well. The "Hamo Tofu" from Awaji has a delicate taste with a hint of Japanese pepper that is pleasing to the palate. The dashi, made from matsutake mushrooms, is delicious. The "Tamago Kake Gohan" served in a freshly cooked earthenware pot is presented in a crumbled state. The bowl is warmed with hot water before serving. Eating just the egg yolk adds a rich and gooey texture. By the way, regarding the restaurant's name, the chef explained that it was actually given by those around him. I believe the chef's playful spirit in naming the restaurant is truly commendable. (laughs)

Located on the south side of Karasuma and Ichijo streets, "Toraya Ichijo Store" is a cozy restaurant with a counter seating for seven where you can enjoy both lunch and dinner menus. This time, we opted for the 15,000 yen dinner course. The meal included various dishes such as pickled su-no-kasu, sake-steamed conger eel, sea bream, hiramasa sashimi, conger eel soup, grilled Biwa Lake sweetfish, edamame with kudzu tofu, steamed conger eel and tofu, assorted vegetables, summer duck roast, simmered sweetfish, sea urchin rice, and dessert. Known as one of the pioneering restaurants in Kyoto to incorporate game meat into Kyoto cuisine early on, the duck roast was exceptional. They also serve unique dishes like pickled su-no-kasu and sweetfish simmered in a style not commonly found in other restaurants. With only the owner managing the entire operation at the seven-seat counter, it seems that the variety of steamed dishes is slightly abundant. The owner, who seems to have a strong personality, used to run a restaurant with several young staff members at a different location. Throughout the meal, the owner makes interesting remarks and boasts, adding to the dining experience. While the restaurant is humorously referred to as "Nekoya" (Cat House) due to the nearby "Toraya," it is uncertain whether this is out of humility or not. For those who enjoy the owner's company and lively conversations, this restaurant is a great choice.

My best memory in Kyoto this year was the luxurious time I recently spent at Nekoya. At first, I was attracted by the name "Nekoya" and made a reservation. While looking for the restaurant, I thought it would be near Toraya based on the address, but it turned out to be right across the street from it on Ichijo Avenue. The restaurant was a bit hidden from the road, and the path leading to it had a nice atmosphere. We were served during a refreshing season, crossing a blue field, a little before the Gion Festival. I brought my wife, who I usually can't impress, for our annual meal. I've been accumulating too many red cards lately, so even though I should technically be kicked out, I decided to focus on enjoying the food with moderate alcohol. We sat at the seven-seat counter, just the two of us that day. The kettle was boiling, and we could occasionally hear the sound of dishes being placed, the faint sound of knives cutting ingredients... Time passed quietly. We ordered a beer, and once the first dish arrived, the owner started talking. "Alright, I'll start chatting now," he said with a laugh. The landlady, Iwasaki, also chats a lot... The previous silence was... well, not boring. I've had kaiseki meals before, but it's been a long time since I had a true kaiseki experience. It's been three years since I visited Zuiso near Shin-Kobe Station. Kaiseki meals always seem intimidating. I remember feeling out of place when I visited Hyotei at the age of 30. Eating with my own money makes my taste buds and sense of smell more sensitive. It's like mobilizing all five senses to appreciate the value. This time, besides the food, the luxury of having this time and space to ourselves as a couple was something special. From entering to paying the bill, it took a little over 3 hours. We savored the dishes in the photos. It was truly a luxurious experience. The only thing I want to mention is that, despite receiving the red card, it's hard to say, but the feeling of digesting what I ate was strong, and I didn't feel full. Being frugal is not just a personality trait, it affects the stomach too... Oh dear! Mr. Owner! You have to take care of your wife. Including the dishes in the photos, two beers, and about one sake bottle, it cost a little over 30,000 yen for the two of us. It was delicious.

I had made a reservation for lunch at a restaurant called "En". It is located along the street on the west side of the Imperial Palace. I called to make a reservation three days in advance, hoping for the best, and they said it was okay for one person. I arrived at the restaurant at noon on the day of the reservation. Surprisingly, since I was dining alone, they told me I could sit anywhere I liked. They weren't planning to open the restaurant that day, but they seemed to have made an exception for just one person. I had reserved an 8000 yen course in advance, which included the following dishes: appetizers, Daigo sashimi, grilled dish (sweetfish), yuzu miso sesame tofu, white miso zoni, assorted simmered dishes (bamboo shoots), rice, and dessert. The white miso zoni was not originally part of the course, but when I mentioned that I liked Kyoto's sweet white miso, they quickly made a white miso zoni for me. It's rare to find a restaurant that is so flexible and not bound by set menus. As a customer, I am delighted by this. The food was delicious, but the real highlight was the conversation with the head chef. We chatted the whole time. There was hardly any explanation of the dishes; instead, we talked endlessly about everyday things and work. I prefer this relaxed and friendly dining experience over eating at a formal restaurant. In the end, we chatted for almost two hours straight. We only nibbled on the food in between conversations, so it felt more like we were there to chat rather than eat (laughs). Whether you are a first-time visitor or a regular customer, this restaurant feels like home where you can truly enjoy yourself. I love this kind of restaurant.

I made a reservation for the lunch course for 8000 yen on my first visit. There are also courses in the 3000 yen and 5000 yen range for lunch. I felt that the Japanese cuisine here was very well thought out with various touches from the owner. Since it's done by one person, attention to detail is evident in every aspect. The squid wrapped in mullet roe is irresistible for sake drinkers. The mullet roe is juicy, and the squid has a slightly melted texture, allowing the umami flavor to penetrate, making it a perfect match for sake. The "Soso" dish is made by warming milk, adding vinegar, setting it in a mixer until smooth and firm. It's warm and soft, with a gentle milk scent similar to fromage blanc. The flounder, "En-gawa" (flounder fin), and yellowtail are well-aged with a slightly caramelized color, offering a rich umami taste. The well-balanced soy sauce enhances the fish's flavor, supported by a robust dashi taste. The white miso soup with dried bonito flakes and sakura-colored wheat gluten has a remarkable umami taste, maintaining a delicate sweetness. The dried bonito flakes add an interesting touch. The beef rice steamed dish features tender beef, well-paired with sticky rice, mustard, and it's my first time having rice steamed with meat. The "Managatsuo" with yu-an and sudachi squeezed on top has a perfectly balanced flavor. The homemade yuzu mochi is smooth and deep in flavor, enhancing the umami when eaten together. The strawberry soup has a soft dashi taste and an elegant flavor. The turnip and conger eel dish showcases perfectly steamed turnips that are just firm enough to hold their shape. It's said that you have to use your hands to pick them up as chopsticks won't work. The white rice and rice cake dessert combines Ichida dried persimmons with white bean paste, offering a fantastic texture of half-dried persimmons. The white bean paste is also excellent. All dishes are perfectly executed with unique touches from the owner, making it a wonderful dining experience. The high level of perfection is due to the owner's solo efforts. It's slightly more suited for sake drinkers.

I went to a Japanese restaurant called Enishi in Kyoto. I was staying in Kyoto and wanted to have a kaiseki meal, so I searched for restaurants with a Michelin guide, but couldn't get good responses from any of them. So, I decided to look for a popular yet underrated restaurant on Tabelog. Among the options, I liked Kuzushi Kaiseki, so I made a reservation there. The fact that it was an ex-Hyotei establishment was also a good point in choosing the restaurant. There seems to be a lot of misunderstanding about Kuzushi Kaiseki, but it's actually just breaking down the traditional strict kaiseki structure, not completely changing the essence of kaiseki. In Kyoto, the image of Edogai Edogai might be strong. The restaurant is located right next to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It seems to have moved a few years ago and became the current location. The atmosphere is like a traditional Japanese tea house, which is very Kyoto-esque. When I entered the restaurant, I was the only customer. Sorry to disturb... There were walk-in customers, but they were turned away. It's nice that even if you're dining alone, you can still have a meal if you make a reservation. The restaurant was run by an elderly chef alone. With only about 8 seats in total, it's probably easier for one person to manage. However, since it's just two people during the meal, if you don't talk, it becomes silent. But if you keep talking, you'll be impressed by the chef's wealth of knowledge. They say that customer service starts with showing interest in the customer, and even at his age, he's always attentive, which is truly admirable. The food was all delicious. I can't single out one dish as the best... The sashimi had a slightly less moisture compared to the sea bream in Tokyo, and the flavor was concentrated and delicious. The soup had soft-shelled turtle! And there was enpera in it! The ginger soy sauce for dipping was also perfect. The miso-marinated dish had a rich flavor. The sake that the chef recommended, Tsuru no Tomo, was a perfect match. The homemade karasumi was amazing, but if there were more than 3 pieces, I might have overindulged. Each simmered dish was delicious. I was enchanted by the fatty conger eel and the texture of taro. The broth was also perfect. As for the final meal, I knew that there are restaurants that boast about serving only white rice, but I didn't think there would be a significant difference. The white rice served at this restaurant is truly outstanding, noticeable to anyone with just one bite. It has a good aroma and sweetness. I think the variety was Akita Komachi. The sweetness was akin to zenzai, perfect for a cold day. And the high level of detail in this simple dish kept me captivated until the end. I was the only customer for lunch that day, and it made me realize that the number of customers doesn't always reflect the excellence of the restaurant. Michelin-starred restaurants may be good conversation topics, but in Kyoto, there are high hurdles like no solo diners allowed, so it's worth exploring to find good restaurants in Kyoto.