buff-buff
On the final day of my stay in Fukuoka, I woke up a little later and took the Nishitetsu Limited Express to Yanagawa. The last time I visited Yanagawa was when I was just starting university, so it was many decades ago. Yanagawa was just as I remembered it, a quiet water town with canals flowing through the moat. Enjoying a boat ride, you can see the willow trees lining the riverbanks, swaying in the wind, creating a very relaxed and peaceful atmosphere. Another highlight of Yanagawa is the steamed eel dish called "seiro mushi." In ancient times, eels were caught in the canals, leading to the development of this unique culinary tradition where eel is steamed with rice in a steamer basket. Until 2019, there were two Yanagawa restaurants listed in the Tabelog Eel Top 100, but unfortunately, in 2022, none of them made the list. I chose to dine at the "Honkichiya Honten" which was previously on the Top 100 list. It's a 10-minute walk from Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station, or you can take a taxi for around 700 yen. The restaurant is a splendid old Japanese house with a thatched roof, although the roof was being repaired during my visit. You take off your shoes at the entrance and are led to a spacious tatami room with a view of the courtyard's maple leaves. I ordered the Special Seiro Mushi Set for 6100 yen and a bottle of Ebisu beer for 950 yen. The regular seiro mushi comes with 4 pieces of eel, while the special set comes with 5 pieces. In the Nagoya region and westward, eel is cut into pieces, hence the count. The set meal also includes grilled eel with grated radish. While enjoying my Ebisu beer and admiring the maple leaves, the grilled eel was served. It arrived in a large tiered box, still steaming hot. The eel was nicely grilled with a slightly sweet sauce, crispy skin, and tender flesh, a delicious Kansai-style preparation. The rice, steamed with the eel and sauce, had a chewy texture and a delightful sweet flavor. The grilled eel, grilled before being steamed, was plump and cooked to perfection. The grated radish with the eel and fluffy egg threads paired excellently. The liver and tofu dish had a refined flavor, and the homemade pickles were elegantly tasty. I sprinkled some sansho pepper halfway through and savored the meal slowly, but the eel was so delicious that I finished it quickly. I sipped on tea and leisurely enjoyed the view of the garden. Seiro mushi is a delicious way to eat eel that is not often found in Tokyo. I hope that this cultural tradition of Yanagawa will be preserved, but the prices have certainly gone up significantly. It's now priced similar to Tokyo. As a tourist, I hope that delicious seiro mushi can be enjoyed at a more affordable price in Yanagawa, and I believe that Honkichiya Honten, the best in Yanagawa, will continue to pass down the tradition of seiro mushi without compromising on quality.