ファイブペンギンズ
I have known Mr. Paulo, the Portuguese owner of "Castella do Paulo," and Mrs. Tomoko for a long time. Although we have never met, they probably do not know me. "Castella do Paulo" is a Portuguese pastry shop located right next to Kyoto Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. Paulo, who learned how to make Japanese castella in Nagasaki, opened a pastry workshop in 1996 in the outskirts of Lisbon, Portugal, with his Japanese wife Tomoko. Although castella is said to originate from Portugal, Portuguese people have never eaten it. They later opened a tea salon in Lisbon to introduce castella to more people in Portugal. Then, in 2015, they opened a shop in Kyoto, Tomoko's hometown, to introduce the original form of castella called Pão-de-ló to Japan.
In fact, my junior colleague O once stayed with Paulo and Tomoko in Portugal and experienced Portuguese pastry lessons when the couple lived there years ago. This happened over 10 years ago. O was asked by our company to go on a Portugal tour. Being a big fan of sweets, she was thrilled. However, the one-night-two-day homestay and pastry lesson were not easy. They started preparing pastries early in the morning, making it a serious experience rather than just a pastry lesson. Paulo and Tomoko did not treat her like a regular customer, but rather gave her a rigorous experience similar to being an apprentice in a pastry workshop. O said it was a tough training, but she was impressed by the couple's serious dedication to pastry making. She shared this wonderful experience with me many times, making me feel like I also knew the couple.
On a rainy day in May 2023, I finally had the chance to visit their shop. I bought a full-size Pão-de-ló from the Minho region in northern Portugal for O and a quarter-size one for myself. I also purchased Pudim de Gemma and other items. When I explained who I was to the staff and expressed my desire to meet Tomoko, she warmly welcomed me, despite the sudden visit. She remembered O and welcomed her warmly, even taking us to the second floor. In addition to the pastry workshop and shop on the first floor, there was a café on the second floor. The café displayed beautiful Portuguese azulejos, traditional costumes, and various items. I was moved to see that the place not only sold Portuguese pastries in Japan but also served as a space to promote Portuguese culture. I had previously bought and eaten the original Pão-de-ló, known as the ancestor of castella, from a famous shop in the outskirts of Lisbon. It had a thicker and richer filling. However, the Minho region Pão-de-ló that I bought and ate from Paulo's shop had a texture closer to Japanese castella. It was rich in flavor but not as thick and had a firm texture. This Pão-de-ló was more to my liking. It was baked in a large earthenware mold, covered with a lid, and baked thoroughly, making it fluffy and torn by hand to eat. I tried to imitate it at home. I also learned for the first time that there are various types of Pão-de-ló in different regions of Portugal. O was very happy when I gave her the Pão-de-ló that I carefully brought back to Tokyo as a souvenir from Paulo. She enjoyed it with her family while reminiscing about their memories of Portugal.