蓼喰人
I visited a soba kaiseki restaurant that specializes in duck dishes, which opened in Roppongi two years ago. It has established itself as a top-ranking soba restaurant in Tokyo on Tabelog, and I had been wanting to visit it. Reservations are only available for a set course meal (¥27,500 including tax), with two time slots at 5:30 PM and 8:30 PM. While reservations are not extremely difficult to make, I had trouble finding the right timing. I specified the 5:30 PM slot. The restaurant is located in a narrow alley between a Roppongi intersection and Midtown, so the location is very convenient but a bit hard to find. There is no elevator, and you have to climb a narrow staircase to the 3rd floor where the door with the handwritten name of the restaurant is the only indication of its presence. However, once you step inside, you are greeted by a serene atmosphere and welcomed by the staff. The interior consists of a 6-seat counter that extends straight back, with a clean and simple ambiance. I was seated at the front. At first glance, it was unclear who the owner was, but a kind young man meticulously removing the strings from snap peas in front of me seemed to be the owner, Mr. Maeda. The other three staff members were also handsome young men of the same age. The owner is from Kansai and comes from a family lineage where his grandfather owned a sushi restaurant, his father was a French chef, and his uncle was a soba craftsman. He himself has experience training in Japanese, French, and even Chinese cuisine. I had high expectations for the dishes that would incorporate these influences. I arrived a bit early and ordered a beer when asked for a drink. A thin glass of draft beer was served, and when I asked about the brand, they said it was Sapporo Black Label, poured expertly and tasted delicious. Once everyone had arrived by the scheduled time, the owner gave an introduction and the meal began. The dishes were served in the following order: "Mori Soba": A small portion of Hitachi Akisoba was served on a plate at the beginning, showing creativity. The soba was made of 100% buckwheat, with a slightly coarse grind but beautifully connected and perfectly cooked with a good texture. It was served with salt, allowing me to enjoy the fragrant and sweet taste of the soba itself. "Snap Pea Potage": The vibrant green color resembled spring, with a nasturtium leaf with wasabi aroma on top. The flavor and aroma of snap peas were prominent, and the potage was light and creamy, with a smooth foam texture that was pleasing to the palate. "Steamed Clams": Large clams from Kashima were simply steamed with sake, perfectly cooked with a delicate texture. They were neatly shaped and cut into three pieces, surprisingly tender and flavorful. Of course, I made sure to enjoy every drop of the steaming broth left in the bowl. "Duck Breast Sushi": Kombu-cured duck breast was presented, and the owner meticulously sliced and shaped it in front of the customers, making sure each slice was finely scored to avoid any sinewy texture. The duck breast was then made into sushi with wasabi hidden inside, and a slightly sweet soy sauce glaze was brushed on top. The rice was subtly vinegared to enhance the flavor of the duck, and the amount of soy glaze was just right, creating a well-balanced taste. "White Asparagus Pork Belly Rolls": Thick white asparagus wrapped in thinly sliced pork belly, sautéed and glazed with a sweet and spicy sauce, garnished with Korean chili pepper for a spicy kick. The dish was skillfully cut and served, accompanied by pickled quail eggs with a creamy yolk texture and a light acidity that was interesting. "Seared Kinmedai with Deep-Fried Cherry Shrimp": A stone fireplace with charcoal was set up at the back of the counter, where the owner finished grilling dishes and later prepared the duck roast to come. The kinmedai was quickly seared here before being brought out and served with cherry shrimp tempura on top. The sauce had a spicy kick from Korean chili pepper, showcasing a touch of Chinese culinary technique.