鷲尾★ジロー
Usually, I review ramen, but occasionally I review the "Hokkaido Centennial Dining Series". It's a record of visiting over 100-year-old shops in Hokkaido. The 11th shop in the Centennial Dining series is the main store of "Senshuan" in Hakodate. Established in the first year of Man'en (1860), this shop has a history of 162 years! It's a shop that boasts a history dating back to the Edo period. In Hokkaido, it is the second oldest confectionery shop.
The establishment of Senshuan dates back to the first year of Man'en (1860), a time when Japan was in turmoil with the assassination of the daimyo Ii Naosuke at the Sakuradamon Incident. This was eight years before the Meiji Restoration. Senshuan opened during the turbulent period of the Bakumatsu era, when Japan was in the midst of the "Sonno joi" movement, with figures like Hijikata Toshizo and Sakamoto Ryoma active in Kyoto and Edo. While we learn about history from textbooks, the history of the Ezo region during the Bakumatsu period is rarely touched upon.
Hakodate, the first port opened in Japan due to the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the United States and Japan in 1854, is a fact that is known but not deeply ingrained in the memory of Hokkaido residents. The town of Hakodate flourished with trade following the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the United States and Japan in 1859, the same time when Sasaki Yoshihei, a lower-ranking samurai from Akita domain, came to Hakodate and started selling food and sweets such as candied butterbur. This marked the origin of the main store of Senshuan. The name "Senshuan" is said to be derived from Yoshihei's hometown of Akita. Senshuan later expanded to Otaru, Asahikawa, and Kushiro. From Otaru, "Sapporo Senshuan" was established and later became independent. Another branch separated from "Sapporo Senshuan" in Obihiro later became known as "Rokkatei". Today, there are only two Senshuan shops remaining in Hokkaido, the main store in Hakodate and "Sapporo Senshuan". Each is managed by a different company.
The main store of Senshuan in Hakodate is located at 9-9 Takaradacho, Hakodate City. It is right in front of the tram stop "Takaradacho", with a statue of the wealthy merchant Kotakeya Kahei from the late Edo period nearby. The shop is a two-story wooden building with a historical charm. The parking lot is located next to the shop. I purchased the famous "Original Yama Oyaji (5 pieces)" for 370 yen. The package features the character of Yama Oyaji skiing with a bamboo leaf and salmon, as in the CM song. Yama Oyaji is a kind of Japanese-Western hybrid senbei. It has a crispy texture and a perfect amount of sweetness, with a hint of butter flavor. Yama Oyaji was created by the fourth generation owner of Senshuan, Sakutaro Matsuda. Matsuda, who was originally a charismatic Japanese confectionery craftsman in Tokyo, developed numerous famous sweets and laid the foundation for Senshuan's development. In 1930, he developed the "Original Yama Oyaji", which became a signature product of Senshuan throughout Hokkaido.