田中 貴
Finally made it. The day after performing at a festival in Iwamizawa, I delayed my flight back to Tokyo and rented a car to drive to Noboribetsu. I was heading to a branch of my beloved Roppongi restaurant, "Tenho". The original owner of Tenho, Takeshi Saito, trained in ramen for 25 years in Asahikawa before opening a shop in Sapporo's Ramen Yokocho in 1977, gaining great popularity. He expanded to Tokyo on November 26, 1984. (Haha, I have a rare book with an interview of the owner from 1987, so I know all about it.) Many people still consider the shop in Ramen Yokocho as the main store, but that's a big mistake. I had visited the shop in Ramen Yokocho in 1997 and had been there many times in the 90s, but the taste was completely different back then. In preparation for my visit to Noboribetsu, I also visited the shop in Ramen Yokocho, where you can order the "135" ramen, even though it's not on the menu. In the 90s, when I asked if they could make the "135", the staff would be surprised and engage in conversation, but this time, during a less crowded time with fewer tourists, everyone was ordering the "135". The soup, with a seafood flavor in addition to the pork bone, was quite different from the original Roppongi shop. The noodles from Nishiyama Seimen were either of a different type or the aging process in Roppongi was unique, as the appearance, texture, and flavor were completely different. Nevertheless, I was satisfied with the "135" that was quite different from the 90s. Now, onto the main topic of the shop in Noboribetsu, there was very little information available. It was said to be run by a relative of Takeshi Saito, but it seems that the taste has not been fully inherited. However, I wanted to try it for myself. If it's related to "Tenho", I want to experience it, I wanted to see the storefront, the noren. That's what being a fan is all about. In fact, the lettering on the Tenho sign was quite similar to the one in Roppongi. It was a moving experience. Without hesitation, I ordered the soy sauce ramen, which, like the original Tenho in Roppongi, follows the Asahikawa style. As mentioned earlier, Tenho started in Sapporo's Ramen Yokocho, and although some people mistakenly think it's Sapporo ramen because they use the noodles from Nishiyama Seimen, the base is actually Asahikawa ramen. This shop boldly writes "Sapporo Ramen" on its sign, but the milky soup with a strong soy sauce flavor is reminiscent of the atmosphere of the old Asahikawa shops where Saito trained, such as "Tokuitiban" and "Ajispecial". After eating, I was about to approach the staff, but a group of Asian tourists entered the shop saying "17 people". Yes, this shop is located in a prime location in Noboribetsu Onsen town, and besides ramen, they also serve Genghis Khan, catering to tourists. But 17 people... I quickly paid and headed to the hot spring right next to the shop. After knowing about this shop for a few years, I finally got to enjoy this bowl of ramen, and while soaking in the Noboribetsu hot spring, I was intoxicated by the joy of it all.