ごろま
Visited for dinner after making a reservation a while back.
**Key Points**
- This newly opened restaurant (May 2024) is a strong performer, already popular likely due to social media outreach.
- The dishes, both appetizers and sushi, are unique and well-prepared; the rice is delicious.
- The customer base and the associated atmosphere are disappointing.
**Operational Details**
- Staffed by a team of several individuals.
- Customer demographic: male groups.
- Payment: credit cards accepted.
- Unknown charges and service fees.
- Online reservations available; solo dining is permitted.
- No lunch service.
- Suitable as a first stop; average stay time about 1.5 hours.
- Google rating: 5.0; Tabelog rating: 3.50, showing a discrepancy.
**Store Overview**
This is a new shop that opened in May 2024, located in a residential back alley. From what I've seen on online reservations, it has been quite popular since its opening, with a good number of customers even on weekdays. The owner seems to be active on social media like TikTok and Instagram, likely aiding in customer recruitment. He appears to be young, and upon researching more, I found out that he previously worked in a shared kitchen in Aoyama, and before that, he gained experience in Kyoto and Ginza. Approaching 30, he has aimed to run his own restaurant.
I initially thought the place had a sophisticated atmosphere and a robust staffing system, suggesting it might be part of a corporate chain, which was confirmed later. It appears that "Standing Sushi Katsuya" is a sister store, affiliated with the Katsuya Group. The location is somewhat distant from the nearby train station, but close to the Toei line.
**Atmosphere and Service**
The restaurant has about 10 counter seats, arranged in a way where you can easily see other patrons, which is not my personal preference, though it seems trendy these days. The space is cozy and has a modern decor that seems relatively luxurious for both Koto ward and the surrounding area. The counter and facility are very clean, characteristic of a new establishment. However, the customer demographic was unfortunate. On the day of my visit, besides myself, there were two other groups; one was quite loud, causing the atmosphere to shift from a sophisticated sushi bar to more of a casual izakaya vibe, reminiscent of Kinshicho.
This was surprising as, in my experience at other sushi places in Ryogoku, I have not encountered such a situation on a weekday. It seems the clientele was heavily influenced by social media presence. Although the owner likely knew one group well and should have considered the mix due to available seating, they chose to place me in between two male groups, which made for a somewhat awkward dining experience.
The owner's service was friendly and attentive. The staff included not only the owner but also some junior chefs and floor staff, resulting in prompt service despite a busy evening. The floor staff seemed to be still getting accustomed to their roles, but they did well overall.
**Ordered Dishes and Cost Performance**
I opted for the 15,000 yen omakase course. Alongside, I had a sansho beer and 1.5 go of sake. The menu included the following items:
- Fried eggplant with miso sauce
- Seared bonito
- Spring sea bream
- Horse mackerel
- Stripe jack
- Lean tuna
- Medium-fat tuna
- Sea urchin
- Fried conger eel with eel broth and red wine sauce
- White squid
- Nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch)
- Corn tempura with rice
- Surf clam
- Kombu-marinated scallop
- Dried surf clam chawanmushi (steamed egg custard)
- Futomaki (thick sushi roll) with eel, egg, cucumber, and gourd
- Dashi miso soup
- Karinto manju (sweet dumpling) with hojicha tea
The omakase course was reasonably priced. However, the sake felt pricey, as half a serving was offered at around 1,000 yen, which seemed high given that Tabelog mentioned it starting around 600 yen.
**Impressions**
The dishes were inventive and tasty. The first dish featured eggplant from the owner's hometown in Miyazaki, served in a sweet and savory miso sauce. The eggplant's juiciness combined with the sauce showcased a Japanese culinary touch while maintaining a feel of sushi bar fare, setting a great tone for the meal ahead.
Next, the seared bonito was paired with onion soy sauce, letting the rich fish flavor shine through. Following this, sushi and appetizers alternated. The sushi selection, including spring sea bream, horse mackerel, stripe jack, lean tuna, medium-fat tuna, and sea urchin, was notable. The tuna had a fresh, summer-like taste, although the medium-fat tuna showed slight muscle texture.
The owner emphasizes a firm rice texture with a noticeable balance of acidity and salt, opting for no red vinegar—a rare choice today, and the sushi pieces were slightly larger than usual, which I appreciated. Following the nigiri, the fried conger eel was expertly executed, featuring a unique sauce incorporating eel and red wine, exemplifying the owner’s refined palate.
Additional sushi included white squid and nodoguro leading to a flavorful corn tempura rice dish, noted as quite creative. The stepping stones of taste continued with the surf clam, kombu-marinated scallop, and steaming chawanmushi. The final futomaki was distinctive, described as a product of careful development, for which I received two pieces as a special offering. The final touches, including the miso soup and the karinto manju, were exceptional, emphasizing refined craftsmanship.
In summary, the dish quality was high, exhibiting meticulous preparation and execution. It was evident that the owner’s dining experiences positively influenced his approach to ingredients and flavor. The quality and ideas presented could easily rival other sushi establishments in nearby areas.
However, I felt the impact of the customer demographic heavily influenced the dining experience, detracting from the sophistication I was hoping for in a high-end sushi restaurant. Although the restaurant’s current popularity seems anchored in social media attention, it casts doubt on its ability to foster a loyal local customer base. I worry about the mismatch of atmosphere this establishment presents in its current neighborhood.