3298S
In search of high-quality summer cuisine, I visited Matsukawa. The steamed rice with abalone and sea urchin (Beluga caviar), sashimi (sea bream, sea urchin, seaweed), soup (eel, winter melon), corn tempura, steamed shrimp wrapped in yuba, seared hairy crab and okra, grilled salted sweetfish (from Kuta River and Azumigawa), grilled soft-shelled turtle with burdock tempura, grilled fig, and conger eel shabu-shabu (with yuba), cold buckwheat rice (with salmon roe, seaweed, grated mountain pepper), pickles, red miso soup, grilled eel, water yokan, and thin tea. Abalone and sea urchin are the summer must-have starters. The quality and cooking method of the abalone are excellent. The simmered dish has a gentle flavor that impresses every time. The soup in the bowl is slightly richer than usual. The handling of the eel and the cooking of the winter melon are superb, with a high level of completion. The hairy crab and okra are served with a tangy jelly, making it easy to eat even on hot days and providing a perfect balance in the middle of the course. The soup for the conger eel shabu-shabu is made with kombu and conger eel bones, creating a robust flavor. Personally, I prefer a lighter and more austere broth for conger eel shabu-shabu, but I can see how the balance at this restaurant would be more widely accepted towards the end of the course. Cooling off with cold buckwheat rice after a hot day and enjoying the grilled eel is also delightful. The ingredients used are of very high quality, with a slightly strong umami and saltiness. The composition of the course, especially the balance of acidity and intensity of flavors, is excellent, allowing you to enjoy every bite until the end. The level of the dishes, including the presentation and serving, is exceptionally high, and the service is attentive to every detail. It's surprising to see such a high level maintained in a restaurant of this size (with three private rooms and a six-seat counter).