辣油は飲み物
This article is a reprint from a blog. Sushi Log: https://sushi-blog.com/entry/sushi-oku
"Sushi Oku" opened on April 10, 2021. It is the shop of Oku-san, who served as the second-generation master at Asakusa's "Hashiguchi" shop. Despite trying to visit several times after my last visit in May 2021, I couldn't get in due to bad timing. This time, I made a reservation well in advance and revisited after about a year. As a result, the sushi made by Oku-san is still excellent, especially the finishing touches like konowata and simmered dishes were exceptional! The unique sushi and very reasonable prices make this place stand out.
About the master of "Sushi Oku," Mr. Katsuji Oku
Mr. Oku, the master, has an interesting background. He trained as a craftsman at the once-popular "Takase" in Asakusa. However, at one point in his career, he quit being a sushi chef. He pursued a completely different profession and later restarted his career as a tempura chef. It's quite rare to see someone go from sushi to non-food industry to tempura and back to sushi. When working at a tempura restaurant, he was approached by the former master of Sushi Hashiguchi, Mr. Hashiguchi, but initially declined. However, when called again, he decided to return as a sushi chef to honor Mr. Hashiguchi's wishes. The trust between Mr. Hashiguchi and Mr. Oku, both from the "Takase" background, is evident. This traditional apprenticeship system and the craftsmanship beauty shine brightly in an age where the "no need for training" theory and early independence by patrons are prominent.
Mr. Oku has a strong belief as a craftsman and is also very hospitable to customers. I was impressed not only by the taste of the sushi but also by his personality when I first visited, which is why I continue to visit. I highly recommend "Sushi Oku" to sushi enthusiasts and those interested in sushi, regardless of age.
About the rice and work at "Sushi Oku"
Mr. Oku has always expressed his unique style while using the "Edomae Sushi" basics and techniques since the time of Mr. Hashiguchi. This is easier said than done. Establishing individuality within the traditional style requires thorough basics and a sense of taste. The sushi made by Mr. Oku had a strong presence beyond its appearance. After opening his own shop, he expanded the range of expressions further. The finishing touches like konowata and dried gourd are influenced by his past work, providing enjoyment for sushi enthusiasts. Despite the classical techniques, there is no old-fashioned feel. Additionally, he incorporates surprises like the unique texture of surf clam and the use of rare Tokishirazu. Each piece has its own individuality in the thickness of the fish cut and knife work, so it's something sushi enthusiasts should pay attention to.
The rice at "Sushi Oku" is a blend of Yokoizou Yohhei (red vinegar) and Kanemasa (rice vinegar) from Yokoizou Brewery, just like in the days of Mr. Hashiguchi. However, I felt that the acidity was stronger than before, and when I asked, I was told that the salt concentration had been adjusted. It seems to have become a red vinegar rice that is more in line with modern tastes. It reminds me of the rice at restaurants like Katsuta and Tomidokoro that fans of sushi rice enjoy. The slightly firm rice and gently warm temperature provide stability, allowing you to enjoy it from start to finish without any fluctuations.
[June 2022 Update] Afterward, the balance of seasoning was changed. I was surprised to find that sugar was used to add sweetness. However, the balance of sweetness is good, so there is no discomfort, and you can enjoy the elegant taste. Also, it was mentioned that the vinegar used is a special order Yokoizou "Tokushiro" from Takase. As for the sake dishes, the volume has been slightly reduced compared to Mr. Hashiguchi's time, with more focus on the sushi, -==-