ゆぽんた
Unagi is a favorite dish of mine. Today, I visited the popular restaurant "Unagi Tokitou" in Azabu-Juban. The owner, Mr. Tokitou, spent 15 years honing his skills in Azabu-Noda Iwa after graduating from junior high school. He has worked as a head chef in various establishments, including overseas experiences in France. In June 2018, he opened the world's first Unagi French Kaiseki Tokitou in Azabu-Juban, and it has been thriving since then. I've actually met Mr. Tokitou before during his time at "Ginza Tokitou," where I interviewed him as an eel guide for All About Unagi. You can find the article from that time here: [link]. I remember his dedication to eel even back then. It was a delightful reunion with Mr. Tokitou after so long.
In 2018, Mr. Tokitou opened his own restaurant, French Kaiseki Tokitou, in Azabu-Juban, specializing in eel cuisine. We indulged in the eel lunch kaiseki course. The lunch course starts promptly at 12:00 for everyone. First, we enjoyed the "Tokitou's specialty eel bar," where the acidity of tomatoes perfectly complements the grilled eel. Today's eel, sourced from Aichi Prefecture, was showcased to all customers. Sitting at the counter, you're right in front of the kitchen, creating a lively atmosphere where you can watch the cooking live.
Mr. Tokitou sliced, skewered, and grilled the eel right before our eyes. We started with a soup containing fried eel and marinated turnips. I love the crispy texture of the fried eel. Then came a trio of appetizers: Umaki (eel rolled with egg), served with Arima sansho pepper; Cream-stewed lobster with eel, rich and flavorful; and Eel liver pate, condensed with umami, perfect with sake. Since it's French Kaiseki at Unagi Tokitou, we enjoyed some wine. We had a glass of Carré Pinot Noir. It's rare to see a chunk of prosciutto in an eel restaurant, but there it was at Unagi Tokitou. Then came the "Shirayaki," grilled eel served with prosciutto, sudachi citrus, wasabi, plum paste, salt, and yuzu pepper. Mr. Tokitou entertained us with anecdotes about eel and plum pairings, debunking myths as he proceeded with his eel theater. The prosciutto and plum paste perfectly complemented the crispy and crunchy Shirayaki.
Next up was eel pasta, made by tossing penne with eel in tomato sauce. It's impressive how eel can be cooked deliciously in both Japanese and Western styles.
Finally, it was time for the finale: Unaju, grilled eel over rice. Mr. Tokitou proudly presented the grilled eel, and along with it, a 3-minute hourglass was served. He instructed us to open the lid when the hourglass ran out. Ah, I see, the eel is steamed inside the box. By the way, I requested the rice to be on the firmer side. We could savor the high-quality fattiness of Aichi's eel, tenderly steamed inside the box. It's evident that Mr. Tokitou is getting closer to his ideal grilled eel, different from the "Ginza Tokitou" era.
I found Unagi Tokitou's eel cuisine quite innovative, reflecting Mr. Tokitou's background of apprenticeship at the renowned Noda Iwa and his experiences in France, where eel is also used in European cuisine. The collaboration between traditional Japanese eel cooking methods and French techniques holds promise for the future. You can also enjoy the famous Unagi Burger at Unagi Tokitou in Azabu-Juban.
Date of Visit: March 23, 2021
Location: Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo 2-5-11 AZABUMAISON 201
Closed: Sundays, Midsummer Day of the Ox, Mondays and Thursdays for lunch
Official website: http://tokitou-unagi.jp/
More information on Tabelog: [link]