大阪めんま
Kyoto and Hokkaido are known for their specialty dried herring called "migaki nishin," which is simmered in sweet sauce and served on top of soba noodles to create "nishin soba." In Kyoto, the dish is seasoned lightly with kombu and light soy sauce, using green onions, while in Hokkaido, a darker color is achieved using dark soy sauce and white onions. During the late Edo period to the Taisho era, herring fishing was thriving along the coast of Hokkaido, and during spring, large schools of herring would gather to spawn, turning the sea white in what was called "gunki." Before the development of freezing technology, herring was processed into dried herring as a valuable preserved food source, transported on ships from Hokkaido to mainland Japan, where herring dishes like nishin soba evolved in various regions such as Kyoto. Although herring catches peaked during the Meiji era, the gunki phenomenon began to decline rapidly around the Showa 30s, resulting in a significant decrease in herring catches. However, herring dishes and food culture, including nishin soba, have taken root in various regions. The origin of nishin soba in Kyoto is said to be the "Matuba" shop, while in Hokkaido, the recipe passed down from the fishing family "Yokoyama" in Esashi town during the heyday of herring fishing is considered the root. This time, I visited the original shop known as the originator in Kyoto, the "Sohonke Nishin Soba Matuba," established in the first year of the Bunkyu era (1861). In a time with limited logistics surrounded by mountains on all sides, dried fish such as herring and cod were precious protein sources. The second generation of Matuba conceived the balanced nutritional "nishin soba" by combining herring and soba, introducing it in 1882. Nishin soba has been consumed at other shops before, but this was my first visit to the original shop. The store has the main store and, as of March 2023, the "Kita store," "Kyoto Station store," and the "Honsha sales store" in Arashiyama. I visited the main store near Gion Shijo Station on a Thursday, and despite the official website listing Tuesday and Wednesday as regular holidays, the store was open. The seating inside the store is divided into different floors, and I was guided to the third floor where I was the only customer at that time. The menu offers a variety of soba and udon noodles, rice bowls, set meals, and side dishes. In addition to the basic "nishin soba," they offer "hiyashi nishin soba," "hiyashi nishin oroshi soba," "nishin don," "nishin nasu teishoku," "nishin karashi tsuke," and "nishin takikomi," among other herring dishes. This time, I ordered the basic "Nishin Soba" for 1650 yen (tax included). The soba noodles were topped with sweet-simmered herring, and a side dish of green onions was served. The presentation was very simple. The aroma of the Japanese broth was the first thing that caught my attention when it was served, spreading a rich scent of dashi throughout the area. The broth had a rich umami flavor from the dashi, and the soba noodles had a firm texture with a good chew, complementing the aroma of the broth. The sweet-simmered herring was moist and tender, with a sweet and savory seasoning that also had a hint of fat, making it very delicious. Truth be told, I had never found herring soba to be delicious before, mainly due to the dry and tough nature of the herring I had tried previously, which did not make me want to top my soba with it. However, the herring at this shop was truly delicious, completely changing my perception, and I was glad I came to eat here. Not only the herring but also the broth and soba were delicious, and although the price was on the higher side, the satisfaction level was also high. Thank you for the meal!