餓神
I was invited to the best entertainment of my life. From the chaos of a power outage at JR Kyoto Station, I took a taxi and told the veteran driver "Kyoyamato," to which he responded, "I haven't been there, but it's near Ninen-zaka." As we climbed further up the slope from the entrance of Kodai-ji Temple, we saw the sign for Kyoyamato. Surrounded by long-standing and newly established ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants), this place stood out as a special space with a special presence. The attendant informed us that the building has been around since the Nara period and was once a villa for the hospitality of the Western Pure Land Temple. Even just hearing about where historical figures like Toyotomi Hideyoshi sat in the room where I was seated (not the head seat) made this venerable establishment worth visiting.
Walking along a long path from the gate at the top of the steep slope to the entrance, we were greeted with a view of Yasaka Pagoda. The property covers 3000 tsubo (Japanese unit of area), but it was hard to grasp the size until we saw the maple trees reflected in the pond. The first course was sakura-yu, a clear soup with a hint of cherry blossom flavor that was surprisingly delicious. The confidence with which they presented the tofu from Kyoto's Toyokake and the exquisite taste of the dish left me impressed. The next course was tofu with cherry blossoms inside, served in a bowl with cherry blossom leaves made from edamame paste. The soup contained cherry blossoms and cherry blossom leaves made from udo (a type of plant). The attention to detail in the dish was remarkable.
The sashimi consisted of Ise shrimp, sea bream, and ark shell, with the sea bream being surprisingly thickly sliced. The daikon radish garnish was prepared in a unique way, with the attendant explaining the intricate process behind it. The hassun (assorted appetizers) included fried whitefish, marinated moroko fish, and sushi made from young bamboo shoots. Each dish was prepared with meticulous care and attention to detail.
The yakimono (grilled dish) featured tilefish, conger eel, and kogomi (a type of fern). The kogomi, which I mistook for zenmai (another type of fern), was prepared in a special way that highlighted its unique texture and flavor. The sunomono (vinegared dish) included shrimp and ark shell served with a rich egg yolk vinegar. The nimono (simmered dish) featured bamboo shoots, sea bream roe, and butterbur, all cooked to perfection.
The meal concluded with clam rice, a dessert of matcha ice cream, papaya, strawberries, and warabi mochi. The matcha ice cream was rich and flavorful, and the strawberries were sprinkled with white chocolate instead of sugar to preserve their freshness. The warabi mochi was served in a smooth red bean paste, complemented by a delicious genmaicha (brown rice tea).
I also enjoyed the original sake from Kyoyamato, which was smooth and easy to drink. Overall, the experience at Kyoyamato was unforgettable, with each dish showcasing the skill and dedication of the chefs.