sanokuni
Sakurauesui Funaoshi @ Sakurauesui
● Char Siu Wonton Ramen (Salt) $15
● Seasoned Egg $1.20
Opened in January 2023, "Sakurauesui Funaoshi" is located a 3-minute walk from the north exit of Sakurauesui Station on the Keio Line in Setagaya Ward, Shitatakaiido, along Koshu Kaido. The owner, Setsuya Funaoshi, honed his skills at the renowned Takadanobaba shop "Watana" for over 12 years starting in December 2009 before branching out on his own. Highly anticipated for its opening, the restaurant has been attracting constant lines of customers on both weekdays and weekends. Funaoshi is the fifth official apprentice to be granted independence by the legendary ramen consultant and representative of "Watana Style," Jikuan Watanabe, who has only certified four disciples thus far. The other four certified apprentices have since opened their own successful shops: Ito of "Izuku-Gonojin Seisakusho," Kurata of "Papapayain," Saito of "Ramen Gottsu," and Aota of "Sendai Kuroku."
Since its opening, "Sakurauesui Funaoshi" has continued to be a highly popular new restaurant, with lines stretching beyond the storefront even six months after its debut. Arriving on a Saturday just before opening at 10:30 a.m., there was already a line of over 15 people. At exactly 11:30 a.m., after an hour of waiting, we were able to enter the 7-seat counter-style restaurant with a modern interior featuring concrete walls and white wooden counters. At the entrance, there is a ticket vending machine offering a limited menu as of September 2023, featuring only salt-based Chinese noodles such as Ramen (950 yen), Wonton Ramen (1200 yen), Char Siu Ramen (1250 yen), and Char Siu Wonton Ramen (1500 yen), with various toppings available. Noodle portions include a standard 200g and a large serving of 300g (+100 yen). The owner's recommendations are the "Wonton Ramen (Salt)" (1200 yen) and the "Seasoned Egg" (120 yen).
Opting for the "Char Siu Wonton Ramen (Salt)" and "Seasoned Egg," we were served in simple white bowls accompanied by a ladle on a silver plate. The soup, pouring generously from the bowl, had a classic northern Kanto and Tohoku-style appearance, with a soup base that was rich and slightly cloudy, filled with an impactful flavor from a dynamic blend of pork, chicken (including old chicken, chicken bones, and chicken momiji), and a hint of beef broth. Accompanied by a peppery spiciness, the soup created layers of flavor combining animal-based broth with the nuanced taste of kombu and dried sardines.
The noodles, supplied by "Mikawaya Seimen," are medium-thick noodles specially made to order, with a mix of wheat flour and a water ratio specifically designed for hand-kneading just before boiling. After multiple trials, a custom-made noodle with enough firmness to facilitate hand-kneading was perfected. The noodle's robust texture matched well with the rich and flavorful soup, providing a satisfying chew. The Char Siu included two types: a smoked pork loin prepared on a roaster and a simmered pork belly cooked in the soup. The smoked pork loin exuded a smoky aroma, while the tender pork belly melted in the mouth with a sweet richness.
The wontons, with a smooth skin texture, were filled with a meaty and flavorful stuffing. Toppings such as komatsuna greens, menma (seasoned bamboo shoots), crunchy negi, and other condiments were intentionally arranged to create a harmonious balance within the meal. Though initial experiments included light ramen with premium ingredients and trendy elements, Funaoshi ultimately decided that the ramen he wanted to serve wasn't represented by those options. After deep consideration, he found his vision and created a ramen that truly reflects his pursuit of flavor and presentation.