蓼喰人
I had some business in Ginza before noon, so I decided to stop by this restaurant on my way back. Despite having various options within walking distance, I chose this one as it is directly connected to the subway, especially with the rainy weather. The main branch in Iidabashi is well-known as a prestigious eel restaurant in Tokyo, and this location has a similar reputation. The building, Tsukamoto Sannenzaka Building, is quite old and has been connected by an underground passage since the Marunouchi Line was laid over 60 years ago. There is also the famous Sukiyabashi Jiro located across from here, which I had visited once last year upon MF's invitation. Another popular restaurant, Birdland, is also on this floor and has earned one Michelin star. I arrived right at the opening time of 11:30 am, but there were already customers seated at the tables in the back. It seemed like there were also reservations for lunch gatherings at several tables. I was greeted by a female staff member in a kimono and was seated at a table in the corner. The menu displayed also mentioned that they had natural eel available today, and for an additional 600 yen, it could be added to the eel bowl. The menu included five types of eel bowls as well as a variety of courses to enjoy. I found the "Chidori" option intriguing, and since it could be upgraded to natural eel for an extra 600 yen, I decided to go for it. I wanted to have a drink, so I chose the Iwate local beer "Sansho Ale," which is flavored with Japanese pepper, and it had a subtle hint of the spice, which was quite enjoyable. The "Chidori" course included the following: The appetizer consisted of "eel on ice" and "simmered eel," both served in small portions but with excellent craftsmanship, especially the texture and flavor of the eel on ice was outstanding. The "one-bite grilled eel" was elegantly presented in a metal box with a square lacquered piece placed on top, a special container traditionally used in old Edo-style eel restaurants for keeping it warm. When I opened the lid, a relatively large quarter of a white-grilled eel appeared. It was accompanied by wasabi, salt, and soy sauce, and the taste was indeed delicious, perhaps due to it being natural eel. The "eel bowl" was served in an elegant Arita ware bowl, and upon lifting the lid, a generous portion of half a grilled eel was delicately arranged on a bed of rice. The eel had a minimal char and glaze, showcasing the restaurant's subtle style. The wide-mouthed bowl allowed for a beautiful presentation, and the quality of the rice and evenly distributed sauce made it a delightful dish. When I dug in with my chopsticks, the eel and rice melded seamlessly, a characteristic of the steamed process in traditional Edo-style eel cuisine. The eel, with just the right amount of fat removed, had a refined taste, and the sauce, not too strong and with a hint of sweetness, was sophisticated. The rice was of excellent quality, and the pre-applied sauce evenly coated it, enhancing the overall experience. The "eel liver" was well-prepared and generously portioned with mitsuba garnish, and the liver had a perfect texture for sipping. The "grated radish" served as a palate cleanser, although I felt the pickles were unnecessary. The "pickles" included "daikon and cucumber nukazuke and cabbage asazuke," and while I missed the traditional Narazuke, it seems that some restaurants have stopped serving it recently, possibly due to the alcohol content. For dessert, I was served "plum wine jelly," which had a pronounced plum wine flavor and a pleasing texture reminiscent of agar used in pastries, a delightful finish to the meal. Although each portion was small, the variety of dishes showcased the restaurant's full range of offerings. The basic course was priced at 5,300 yen, with an additional 600 yen for natural eel, plus the drink and a 10% service charge, bringing the total to 7,500 yen. The taste, as well as the functional beauty of the presentation, left a lasting impression.