タケマシュラン
Descending Gonokosaka from Meguro Station and heading westward along Meguro Street, tonight we visit "Kabi," a restaurant that has become a topic of conversation in Tokyo for its rare Nordic style. It's located around Meguro Parasitological Museum and "Restaurant Unique" area. The establishment, renovated from a private residence, boasts a surprisingly spacious interior with around 10 counter seats and several table seats. There are also private rooms towards the back. The restaurant is led by the duo of Chef Shohei Yasuda and Sommelier Kentaro Emoto. Both garnered experience in renowned overseas establishments, then reunited in Japan to open this restaurant in 2017.
The alcohol pairing tailored to the dishes costs around ¥10,000 including tax. They showcase treasures from around the world, including sake and cocktails, which, as a staunch advocate of French wines, didn't quite suit my palate. While I thought about just ordering a bottle of wine, I also acknowledge that the restaurant's concept thrives on its beverage pairings.
We started with a dashi broth infused with the flavor of matsutake mushrooms, reminiscent of a soup served in an earthenware pot. The octopus followed, decent in taste but lacking in portion. Then came the bonito, sea bream, and fig tempura, each served in small portions that made it hard to remember what we were eating. The chicken liver had a decent portion and paired well with Japanese sake, but oddly, it was served with a Sicilian rosé. The mackerel, again in a small serving, included cheese, leaving us unsure of the appropriate reaction to its taste.
There was a plate resembling a variety of simmered dishes, with scallops included as a token addition, but it lacked any memorable flavor. The anolini (a type of ravioli) seemed promising in direction but needed at least three times the portion. Finally, the horse mackerel arrived in a decent portion, yet the bland ingredients and subtle seasoning left much to be desired.
The main dish was labeled as "beef," but what arrived was a thin slice of meat, leaving us exchanging puzzled looks. It felt like a pop fly before even discussing whether it was delicious or not. The finale, a dessert of ginger-infused Mont Blanc, finally provided a portion size worthy of discussion, the highlight of the meal.
After consuming all this, with alcohol pairings, the bill amounted to around ¥26,000 per person. While neither the ingredients nor the wines seemed particularly luxurious, the price felt exorbitant. The abundance of staff somewhat justified the cost, though their slow pace in serving dishes raised questions about their efficiency.
Furthermore, the variability in service quality, from overly verbose explanations to poor use of honorific language, fell short for a restaurant charging a 10% service fee. Nonetheless, Kabi stands out as a fancy and unique establishment, offering cuisine akin to imaginary numbers, challenging the norms of Tokyo's restaurant scene. While not recommended for those who prefer a single ingredient, sauce, and one glass of wine per dish, it might appeal to those with a worldview akin to Hiroyuki Machida. The restaurant's direction and establishment reminded me somewhat of Kyoto's "LURRA°."
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